• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Steering Ball-Joints

Share this page

5

58_BN4

Guest
Guest
Offline
Hello Again, I am again the guy building a car from a "kit". Purchased completely unassembled, with only the forum and catalogs to reassemble. Frustrated by the lack of detail in the Haynes AH manual. I searched the forum and found comments on the turning of the ball joint at tightening, and I believe I have that worked out. Can anyone tell me what the torque values are for all of the ball joint fastenings at the steering assembly? I see an amazing number of things to tighten with no published torque values. Also steering box and idler-arm nuts? With castleated nuts or nylock, how tight is tight? Thanks Agian, don't know where I would be without this forum.
 
I don't know if there are torque values or not. The ball joints and most of the other steering joints are a taper fit. You are pulling the taper together. Once you do that, you can snug it a little but you do not have to stand on it. If they have cotter pins, I snug it and tighten or loosen until the pin lines up. The manual might show a torque value for the idler arms, but you still have to line up the cotter pins. Hope some of this helps. :hammer:
 
In lieu of anything 'official' in the manual you can use standard values; e.g.

https://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html

Note that values are usually less if you pre-lube the threads. As always, tap or chase threads beforehand to get a realistic torque reading (or, you can use the old, tried-and-true method of 'torque until it snaps, then back off half a turn').

One of my practices for normal work--where torque specs aren't critical--is to use a 3/8" ratchet with sockets. You generally can't overtighten a quarter-inch bolt or larger with just a 3/8" ratchet with wrist strength.

You'll really want to get a shop manual. The 'Bentley' reprints are faithful, with some additional data. Found one (apparently) here:

https://hdrogers.com/liter.html


One of the sublime joys of owning old British sports cars are the hand-drawn illustrations and droll Brit descriptions in the manuals. The Healey manuals are very well-written and accurate.
 
Back
Top