Steering Arm Castle Nut Torque

[CambriaBN1]

I have a 1955 AH BN1 and am in the process of rebuilding the steering idler. Does anyone know the torque specification for the castle nut that holds the steering arm onto the spindle for the idler?

If not a specification, how about a suggested torque?

Also, is the torque for castle nut holding the steering arm on the steering box the same?

Thanks.

 

[Healey Nut]

Castle nuts don’t have torque values . They are tightened accordingly then backed off a bit to allow the installation of the split pin that locks them in place .

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I couldn't find a spec for the steering arm nut or the pittman arm nut, but the castle nuts on the front stub axle spindles do have a torque spec of 40-70lb-ft (then 'backing-off'). Last time I used these numbers it allowed the toothed flat washer to rotate--it wasn't 'cut' very precisely--and it sounded like the wheel was going to come off until the washer wedged itself stationary. Now, I torque the snot out of them until I know I can't reach the next slot. It's a big nut, it presses against the solid steel spacer and shims, and there's not much risk of stripping threads. I've got around 50K miles on them with no issues. IMO, torquing to a spec then backing-off makes no sense; how much torque/stretch is left? Six-sided castle nuts have six slots, so 60 degrees between slots; that's a lot of possible variance in torque (if you've ever tightened a lug nut with a torque wrench you know the last eighth of a turn or so takes the most effort). I also attempt to torque the nut so that the cotter head rests directly on the edge of the nut's slot, such that it resists the nut unscrewing even a little. For the steering arm nut, since it's tapered splines, and they're usually a bee-yatch to get off anyway, I torque until it aligns with a slot on the nut--as stated--using about as much torque as I can get with a half-inch ratchet and not 'gorilla-ing' it ('elbow torque'). It's a good idea, again IMO, to put anti-seize on the tapered splines (these tend to 'rust weld').

My shade-tree torque settings:

1. Finger tight
2. Wrist tight
3. Elbow tight
4. Shoulder tight
5. Whole body tight
6. Whole body, with breaker-bar tight ('gorilla')
7. Impact wrench tight (Danger Will Robinson!)

Castellated slots: ('N' = cotter head):

|N | (loosening possible) vs. | N| (loosening resisted)

 

[Healey Nut]

My shade-tree torque settings:

1. Finger tight
2. Wrist tight
3. Elbow tight
4. Shoulder tight
5. Whole body tight
6. Whole body, with breaker-bar tight ('gorilla')
7. Impact wrench tight (Danger Will Robinson!)

Castellated slots: ('N' = cotter head):

|N | (loosening possible) vs. | N| (loosening resisted)

counting the veins as they stand up in my forearm works for me and if you want really tight once the forearm veins are ready to burst then count the ones on your temples as they start to pulse

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I couldn't find a spec for the steering arm nut or the pittman arm nut, but the castle nuts on the front stub axle spindles do have a torque spec of 40-70lb-ft (then 'backing-off'). Last time I used these numbers it allowed the toothed flat washer to rotate--it wasn't 'cut' very precisely--and it sounded like the wheel was going to come off until the washer wedged itself stationary. Now, I torque the snot out of them until I know I can't reach the next slot. It's a big nut, it presses against the solid steel spacer and shims, and there's not much risk of stripping threads. I've got around 50K miles on them with no issues. IMO, torquing to a spec then backing-off makes no sense; how much torque/stretch is left? Six-sided castle nuts have six slots, so 60 degrees between slots; that's a lot of possible variance in torque (if you've ever tightened a lug nut with a torque wrench you know the last eighth of a turn or so takes the most effort). I also attempt to torque the nut so that the cotter head rests directly on the edge of the nut's slot, such that it resists the nut unscrewing even a little. For the steering arm nut, since it's tapered splines, and they're usually a bee-yatch to get off anyway, I torque until it aligns with a slot on the nut--as stated--using about as much torque as I can get with a half-inch ratchet and not 'gorilla-ing' it ('elbow torque'). It's a good idea, again IMO, to put anti-seize on the tapered splines (these tend to 'rust weld').

My shade-tree torque settings:

1. Finger tight
2. Wrist tight
3. Elbow tight
4. Shoulder tight
5. Whole body tight
6. Whole body, with breaker-bar tight ('gorilla')
7. Impact wrench tight (Danger Will Robinson!)

Castellated slots: ('N' = cotter head):

|N | (loosening possible) vs. | N| (loosening resisted)

I think another word for #6 “breaker bar tight” is to “flatulate”.

 

[Fabrice70]

It sounds like you've found a method that works well for you, taking some pressure off once you know you can't move forward. For the steering arm nut, tightening until aligned with a slot seems to be a good approach, without forcing too much. Using a rust converter can also help prevent corrosion, especially on tapered splines, triggering disassembly issues.There are several options available in the market, such as ferose rust converter, wurth rust converter, and rustol rust converter.