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TR2/3/3A Starting TR-2 for first time after restoration

Dick - Did you ask the engine build shop what special things to do when breaking in the engine? special oil(s), max rpm, carb settings, etc.?

Tom M.
 
Tom,

They are no longer in business. I had the block rebuilt about 2 years ago. They told me they had put cam lube on the cam. And did recommend that I use a lead additive when I start it for the first time. While the body was being reworked, I had the engine on a stand. It had oil in it and I turned it over with the crank periodically.

Dick
 
I have not set the timing. I have a light but need to get it started before the light works. was going to set it at about 4 degrees before TDC. Is there a way to set the timing before you get it started?

Thanks, Dick

The light works fine before the engine starts, and setting the timing before an initial start is essential to success. Slowly hand turn the engine clockwise with the light active. Stop when it flashes and look at your timing mark on the crank. It should be about 3/8" before TDC. You can do the same thing with a simple electrical test lamp connected to the coil wire. Rotate the engine until the light just goes out and note the crank timing marks.
 
I would leave the valve cover on loosely to keep oil from splashing around when it starts. When I rebuilt my TD, it started immediately and ran perfectly. I had static timed it. As I recall. the TR3 has a little thumbscrew on the distributor to fine tune the timing if its a little off. If your wiring is ok, it should start right up especially with a squirt of starter fluid in the carbs. Be careful not to flood the engine and foul the plugs. If you do - take them out and clean them before trying to start it again.
 
John,
My timing light has a positive and negative clip, to the battery. It also has a spring coil you connect between plug #1 and #1 wire. Do I now turn the crank clockwise until the light flashes? Is the 3/8" mark to the left of TDC? Should the key be on while you are doing this?

Dick
 
Yes, ignition will have to be on for a strobe light to work. The crank marker will be about 3/8" to the car's right side of the stationary pointer when the light flashes. If you are looking over the front apron, then the crank will be 3/8" to your left of the stationary pointer since you are looking backwards.
 
IMHO if you have the engine distributor installed at TDC compression stroke, the car will start and you can fiddle out those 4 degrees by moving the distributor that small amount at start up. Heck you could have some other small problems you missed, Distributor out 180 or any number of things. Give it a go Dick, and see if you can get it to pop off at least. The suspense is killing me
 
John,

I got the timing light hooked right; clips to battery and wire connected between #1 plug and #1 wire. Got the pointer right on TDC. I hand turn the pulley back and forth, but light never comes on? I am going to try my test light.Where do I hook it up to the coil wire, assuming I have pulled the wire out of the coil? Where does the pointer on my test light touch?

Dick
 
Are you certain you are are at TDC #1 cylinder on the firing stroke? A way to check is that as you rock the motor back and forth at the TDC mark, both valve rockers to the #1 cylinder do not move at all, and, if you remove the distributor cap to double check, the rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug and points lobe is about to open the points. All of the above conditions must be met, or the engine is out one turn from #1, or the distributor is out of phase.

Yes, if you use the test light, it should be on the point side of the coil, so it sees the points opening and closing. The other side can go to a ground.
 
Are you using positive or negative ground? Follow the red for positive on the light even if that goes to ground on your car.
 
Thanks John,
I haven't rocked the engine, but the pointer appears to be pointing to the #1 contact in the cap, when at TDC. Can you actually see #2 3 & 4 rockers move? How do you rock the motor?

I am pretty sure I installed the distributor correctly, maybe not? When you say "point side" do you mean the hot stud on the coil, not the ground?
 
You might have to pull the plugs to easily manipulate the engine to spin--- kill the compression –and then get a good look at your static point on the timing chain cover and the dynamic point on the crank shaft pulley—the little hole drill through about 3/16. Line those up and look at the rotor, but it sounds like no power to your device
 
The car is set for negative ground. I am putting the red clip of the strobe on the + bat terminal. Is that what you mean?
 
You described my light. My son is bringing his over tomorrow, to check whether mine is bad. It hums, but is about 40 years old?
 
By "point side", I mean the terminal with the wire going to the distributor. It will likely have a "-" by the coil post if you are negative grounded. With gloves you should be able to grab hold of the fan and rock the motor...of course be very sure all the electrics are disabled, as even a pop can hurt with that sharp fan. When you rock it just a bit around TDC, either the #1 or #2 rockers will move. For the correct number 1 TDC the #2 rockers will move, but not those over #1, as it should be on the compression stroke.
 
It all sounds good; very nice your son is coming over; it is also good to have another set of eyes when dealing with something new. I have 3 boys and they are not interested in working on cars or have the tools. They would help out, but our schedules are very different. Anyways sounds like you want the timing light on to set that just right before you start it and while it is running. These cars often get timed by ear, but the 4 degrees is helpful point; however, I would set the timing by ear for running new and on the road for performance once the car is drivable.
steve
 
John,

With the pointer at TDC and the rotor pointed at #1 cap contact I rock the fan. #2 rocker moves first and then # 1 moves too?
 
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