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TR2/3/3A Starting TR-2 for first time after restoration
- Thread starter Redoakboo
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I will meet you with my Pearson 29, car on board.
We tried to start it today, no luck. All we managed to do was blow the oil pressure line off the gauge, apparently wasn't tight.One of the guys in my club is a top notch TR man. We are towing it over there and have the experts look at it.
Next time I post, it should be running?? Is there a sure way do tell whether it's on the compression stroke or not? When I have it on TDC and rotor at #1 , by moving the fan back and forth, #1 & 2 go up and down. Think I have reached the Peter Principle.
Dick
We tried to start it today, no luck. All we managed to do was blow the oil pressure line off the gauge, apparently wasn't tight.One of the guys in my club is a top notch TR man. We are towing it over there and have the experts look at it.
Next time I post, it should be running?? Is there a sure way do tell whether it's on the compression stroke or not? When I have it on TDC and rotor at #1 , by moving the fan back and forth, #1 & 2 go up and down. Think I have reached the Peter Principle.
Dick
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At TDC compression stroke, which is what you need to find, both valves on cyl #1 need to be closed. It is the compression stroke and the next event is the bang (power stroke). If a valve is open at the bang, you get a backfire thru that valve. A valve is closed when you can move the rocker that operates it by hand. So, both rockers should be movable by hand at TDC compression stroke. If either rocker does not move by hand, you are somewhere else in the sequence.
Bob
PS If your rockers are moving with the pointer/crank pulley indicating TDC, you are TDC on the exhaust stroke. If your rotor is, at this stage, pointing at plug wire 1, you are 180 degrees out with the dist.
Bob
PS If your rockers are moving with the pointer/crank pulley indicating TDC, you are TDC on the exhaust stroke. If your rotor is, at this stage, pointing at plug wire 1, you are 180 degrees out with the dist.
CJD
Yoda
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It sounds like you may be 180 deg out on the dizzy. Let's start like this:
1) Remove the distributor cap and turn the motor Clockwise from the front until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug. Check the timing marks and they should be close to TDC, within 20 degrees or so. Center up the TDC mark.
2) Now, remove the valve cover and look at your rockers. There 8 rockers, and we will call them #1 through #8 from the front for this step.
a) Jiggle the #1 and #2 rockers, they should have the lash you set...about .012". The key is that the rockers #1 and #2 should jiggle slightly .
b) Try to jiggle the #3 and #4 rockers. One or both should be locked in place and not jiggle at all.
3) If step 2 above is good, button it up and double check your initial timing. If step 2 above is backwards...i.e. #1 and/or #2 rockers are locked, and #3 and #4 are loose...then you are 180 degrees out on the distributor. If that is the case, turn the motor one turn clockwise to the next TDC...and remove and re-install your distributor so the rotor points to the #1 spark plug.
There are other ways to accomplish the above, but I think this is the quickest and simplest to get you going. Other things could be off, so re-checking valve lash might be worth while. Also, it's possible the timing marks are not accurate, as the pulley can be assembled out of phase too. If anything above does not seem right, then let us know and we can determine from there what is going on. Best of luck!
1) Remove the distributor cap and turn the motor Clockwise from the front until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug. Check the timing marks and they should be close to TDC, within 20 degrees or so. Center up the TDC mark.
2) Now, remove the valve cover and look at your rockers. There 8 rockers, and we will call them #1 through #8 from the front for this step.
a) Jiggle the #1 and #2 rockers, they should have the lash you set...about .012". The key is that the rockers #1 and #2 should jiggle slightly .
b) Try to jiggle the #3 and #4 rockers. One or both should be locked in place and not jiggle at all.
3) If step 2 above is good, button it up and double check your initial timing. If step 2 above is backwards...i.e. #1 and/or #2 rockers are locked, and #3 and #4 are loose...then you are 180 degrees out on the distributor. If that is the case, turn the motor one turn clockwise to the next TDC...and remove and re-install your distributor so the rotor points to the #1 spark plug.
There are other ways to accomplish the above, but I think this is the quickest and simplest to get you going. Other things could be off, so re-checking valve lash might be worth while. Also, it's possible the timing marks are not accurate, as the pulley can be assembled out of phase too. If anything above does not seem right, then let us know and we can determine from there what is going on. Best of luck!
CJD
Yoda
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Just thinking of what can happen on an initial start...some things I've had trouble with are:
..Dizzy 180 deg out
..If timing it to advanced it will pop and stop the cranking cold.
..Timing marks off, so they do not correlate to the actual TDC
..Fuel not getting to the bowls...easy to check. With air cleaners off, make sure you can see fuel at the needle in the throat of the carbs. A squirt of starting fluid can double check for fuel starvation.
..of course any of the normal ignition issues, like coil, points not set right, and the like. If you get a flash with the timing light when turning the engine over, then these are NOT a problem. If you can't get a flash, then there is an ignition issue.
..plug wires mixed up.
That's the main stuff. If the cam timing is off, that can cause problems. The best check for proper cam timing is a compression test. Good timing should give you 120-170psi on a new motor, and pretty consistent across the cylinders.
..Dizzy 180 deg out
..If timing it to advanced it will pop and stop the cranking cold.
..Timing marks off, so they do not correlate to the actual TDC
..Fuel not getting to the bowls...easy to check. With air cleaners off, make sure you can see fuel at the needle in the throat of the carbs. A squirt of starting fluid can double check for fuel starvation.
..of course any of the normal ignition issues, like coil, points not set right, and the like. If you get a flash with the timing light when turning the engine over, then these are NOT a problem. If you can't get a flash, then there is an ignition issue.
..plug wires mixed up.
That's the main stuff. If the cam timing is off, that can cause problems. The best check for proper cam timing is a compression test. Good timing should give you 120-170psi on a new motor, and pretty consistent across the cylinders.
Once again, I repeat then old mamtra - if its got gas and got spark and both get there at about the same time - its got to run. Maybe not great, not even good, but its got to run. A squirt of starting fluid in the carbs will cause a start if its fuel related. If you can get the points to spark and a spark to jump from the coil lead to the block your ignition is probably ok. Its the timing thing, Make sure your points are opening between .012 to .015. Also make sure your fiber washer on the points isn't shorting out.
I was taught to place my finger or thumb over # 1spark plug hole with the plug removed then turn the motor over; the compression will push your finger or thumb off with clear push. At that exact point stop turning the motor over and look at the marks. That is TDC compression stroke . This usually causes the mark to go past a little, but you can back it up that little bit.
steve
steve
Paddy Lives!!!!!!!!!!!! A buddy, electric gifted, came over and I followed the pic's I took of the engine before I pulled it out. I had every plug wire in the wrong hole. After we sorted that out, BANG! it started. We set the timing right at 4 degrees before TDC. It is still going into the experts this week to sort some of the wiring connections, and let them drive it to check out the transmission operation.
I have some leaks to tend to, oil and gas. I have it jacked up as I think it's the gauge line coming out of the filter housing. And of course I have the usual wonderful SU leaks.
Horn honks when you put A2 fuse in, grounded somewhere. I am going to let the experts sort the 4 wires coming out of the Steering column. They don't follow the wiring diagram colors. I have a light green, green, a dark green and a purple wire coming out of the steering column.
The Saga continues????? Dick
I have some leaks to tend to, oil and gas. I have it jacked up as I think it's the gauge line coming out of the filter housing. And of course I have the usual wonderful SU leaks.
Horn honks when you put A2 fuse in, grounded somewhere. I am going to let the experts sort the 4 wires coming out of the Steering column. They don't follow the wiring diagram colors. I have a light green, green, a dark green and a purple wire coming out of the steering column.
The Saga continues????? Dick
That is wonderful those things happen all the time on new startups--- heck you got it together and it Runs after……….. I will turn the Long Boat around at Cap Disappointment with an Elk Horn . There really is a place here named that (google it)
Great news I needed some
Steve
Great news I needed some
Steve
I had gas and oil on the floor, after running the engine for 15 minutes. Loose oil line feeding gauge and loose fitting under the gas shut off valve. Couple of gauges not working, fuel and temp acts funny. Nice to see the oil pressure sitting at 50 psi ! Timing was spot on at 4 degrees before TDC.
Towing it to a great British repair shop next week to make sure transmission O.K. It ran very smooth, valves clacked for a minute until oil got to them. Only one was to tight.
Dick - We are going on a Viking trip to Alaska summer of 2022. We cancelled France next year; to early with Covid still around.
Towing it to a great British repair shop next week to make sure transmission O.K. It ran very smooth, valves clacked for a minute until oil got to them. Only one was to tight.
Dick - We are going on a Viking trip to Alaska summer of 2022. We cancelled France next year; to early with Covid still around.
A tr2 wiper motor wires different than tr3 wiper and I think you said you have tr3 engine, so I was suggesting maybe other components might be later. If you look at the wiring diagram, the gauges are labeled incorrect; it has the gas gauge and temp gauge mislabeled. You friends probably know that, but in my experience not many people know the little things about a tr2. Here you have John and Long door and they experience
Jayplum
Jedi Hopeful
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