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TR2/3/3A Starting TR-2 for first time after restoration

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R

Redoakboo

Jedi Warrior
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I am getting ready to try and start my TR-2 after a total restoration.The wiring, other then front lights and horn are connected. Valves are adjusted to .013. Has water and gas. Point set at .015. Have a timing light to set timing if it starts? I have turned the engine over several times, no bad clacks. When setting the timing, should the vacuum advance be connected?
Brakes and clutch system have been bled and master cylinder is full. Transmission and engine have oil.

What have I forgotten?

Dick Vinal
 
What have I forgotten?

differential oil!


 
Dick sounds like you are about ready. If you can do it out side and have a fire ex handy. I understand full restoration is different to each person. Mine started with a new frame all drive systems rebuilt, motor, head, valve seats, body strip and painted all new inside and some gages. Tires any and all bushings, gas tank cleaned and sealed and much not listed.
Remove carb air filters and remove radiator cap ( you want to see when thermostat opens and water has steam coming out ) Fuel bowls are empty so give it a chance. Put some thing under the car to see what fall or leaks after running it. If you also rebuilt motor and it runs bring it up to temp two or three times at some point you will have to re check head bolts. Your Generator may not be polarized so it will not charge. A shot of starting fluid might help also. If you have a clear fuel filter will help that fuel is moving and lines are clean. a battery cut out switch in case elect fire . In a salvage yard I saw what looked like new TR 6 that the guy restored and first test drive his wife said. The brakes failed he died. A question to others will add more but be safe Madflyer
 
+1 on Madflyer.

But ... was the engine rebuilt?
 
Yes, engine was rebuilt. New pistons, rings, bearings , valve seats, oil pump filter, rear seal, timing chain adjuster.
 
When I first started my TR2 (TS981) back in 2002 I was told to hold the RPMs at 2,000 for 15 minutes and do not be tempted to blip the throttle any time during those first 15 minutes. Initially it would not start until I wired up the generator gauge or in my case, tied the two wires together. When first started only gauges were tach and oil pressure. Now some 46,000 miles later absolutely no problems.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
I have converted to the alternator that looks like the old generator. I have turned the engine over several times but not tried to start it. I have checked panel gauge lights and the rear lights. The Amp meter seems to be working along with the tach. Haven't turned it over long enough to build up any oil pressure.

Thanks,

Dick
 
I like to have the battery cable lose enough so I can pull them off if need be and some rages around. I leave the distributor just lose enough to turn by hand. I also spin the engine with the coil undone until I get oil pressure on the gauge. Plus some starter fluid and I think a slow trun counter clock wise if it does not start right away or fire. I also put a couple of U shaped bent pieces of tin about ÂĽ thick under the jets to hold the choke out.
steve
 
Thanks Steve,

Will the choke cable stay out when you try to start it? I did plan on leaving the coil wire out until I see some oil pressure,
and have starter fluid. I have a new radiator without the crank hole so might have a problem turning it backwards? An earlier reply said that if it starts, let it run for awhile at 2000rpm?

Dick
 
Be sure your timing is not retarded as it can cause overheating. I would turn it over with the ignition off until I had oil pressure indicating and oil up the passages to the head. Getting oil up to the head can take a bit. You can run the engine with the valve cover off, it won't sling oil all over the place. As another poster indicated, with a flat tappet cam you should keep your rpms 1500-2000 rpms for the first 15-20 minutes to brake the tappets/cam in properly.
 
I have not set the timing. I have a light but need to get it started before the light works. was going to set it at about 4 degrees before TDC. Is there a way to set the timing before you get it started?

Thanks, Dick
 
You can set the timing with point just closing after the motor is at TDC with the marks. If I remember correct, you set the engine to TDC then turn the distributor with a cheap light on the points and when they close or touch the light comes on; the methodology is in many books. I do not bother.
Yes run it for 15 minutes at 2000 rpm to bed stuff in. for me, once I get past the drama of the first start things get easier. As long as you have oil and water you will be fine.

With the choke what I do in manually sick a small piece of something, I used a small piece of U shaped sheet metal ,1/4 spacer between the jet and nut to make sure the choke if open and stays open for the first 2 or 3 or five minutes then take manually take the spacer out once the motor is about 125 degrees. You do not want a bunch of unburned gas in there after it is warm. Plus keep some extra plugs close by because they often foul out until you get things dialed.

the first start is always a drama for everyone

steve
 
I wish you lived close by. Where are you in Washington State? My sister lives on Mercer Island. My grandfather was one of the pioneer families who settled on the island.

Thanks for all your help. With all your suggestions, I will contact you right after"Paddy" starts for the first time.

Dick Vinal
 
Static time the car by aligning the pointer on the timing cover with the hole in the crank pulley and the rotor pointing to #1. Clip a test lite to ground and the probe to the movable points arm. Turn the dist against the direction of rotation of the shaft and yhe light will come on just when the points OPEN. Until the points open, the path thru the points is a dead short and thus the preferred path for the electricity. It will not go thru the resistance of the lite bulb until the dead short is gone. There is no process for dynamic timing with a light described in the Haynes manual and I know of none. Fine adjustment is done by ear.

I assume your oil has high zinc (ZDDP), which is recommended for break in as a kindness to a new cam.

Bob
 
Glad you mentioned the timing light as "Triumph Owners Handbook of Mtc & Repair", by Floyd Clymer, page 30 provide details of checking the timing with the timing light? I did add ZDDP when I added the oil, the cam was not changed as the engine had very low miles and it looked good.

Thanks for the update.

Dick
 
Dick If you got most all the Threads done or checked you are good to go. You can just remove valve cover cap to check oil or remove cover and just squirt some oil over rockers. There has been things said that oil pumps to prime can be slow. If the valve cover is off valves made need final adjustment any way. The 15 min is about right to get to normal temp and the RPM to get oil to all parts of the motor. Did you add a oil cooler if so that will also take time to fill along with the oil filter.
Step 1 use key turn motor over oil to head fuel to carbs Check may not start.

Step 2 motor backfires out carbs ( watch or fire ) check timing try again.

Step 3 starting fluid to carbs motor starts and then dies no fuel check choke ( do not flood motor )

Step 4 Motor starts and runs say five min along enough to check for any leaks. shut down fix any problems.

Step 5 carry on with all needed adjustments as per Threads GOOD JOB

Madflyer
 
My family where pioneers also. The Swedish settled this area as loggers back in the 1870. I am about 30 miles south of Mercer Island in University Place. Dick I think once you said you are 80 is that correct? Heck Dick go try and start that puppy; if it does not start, the forum is here. Spray some starter fluid in the carbs and slowly move the distributor as you are starting if you need to; it will start. First starts are always interesting with a tr3. Once on a first and on brand new distributor cap I had just purchased the inner carbon spring was gone, and I really struggled. That was like 1973 or maybe 72 I just remember I bought the car just a couple years out of high School. In HS I had 1965 sunbeam Alpine, loved that car! at least see if it pops
 
My mothers parents were Swedish too. They came over from Stockholm in the late 1800's. My other grandfather, not the Mercer Island Pioneer, started a insurance company based in Seattle.

I had a 1955 TR-2 in college and my room mate was Dick Moroso. He really had a gift for engines. We rebuilt the engine with 87mm pistons, Isky cam, and Weber carbs, it was a screamer.Dick dropped out of Ga Tech his junior year and went on to make a fortune in the auto parts business.

We moved into a gated community in Jan. and I had to get rid of three of my show cars, two I restored and one I bought new. I had a 57 T-Bird, a 57 TR-3 and a 70 Firebird 400. The TR-2 I bought from a 88 year old man who had stored it in his basement for 30 years! Needed new floors, of course, but the rest of the car was pretty rust free. I had the block rebuilt but I did most of the other mechanical stuff. Suspension, brakes, carbs, wiring, exhaust system, etc. I had it painted BRG, which the paperwork says it left the factory with.

Hopefully, with all your, and other Brits, posts "Paddy" should be running shortly.

Dick Vinal
 
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