TR6 Starting my frame restoration

[Got_All_4]

Didn't want to have to do this but couldn't find a descent frame so sent this to a body shop where they went through the frame and straightened the front end and along with a new support tube it all fits perfect now. Found a lot of corrosion in the cross members for the trailing arms. Ordered 2 from TRF and started to install them today. Made a jig so they can be mounted back perfectly. Few other pics from patches I did a few weeks ago.

 

[ed_h]

Looks like youve got a good, methodical approach. It should come out great.

Ed

 

[malbaby]

I would also strengthen the chassis rails in this area, as that is where flex occurs.

 

[Got_All_4]

Yes I have been thinking about how to do that. Any Ideas? I saw someone put a tube between the inner and outer frame rails. I was thinking of removing the upper T shirt and welding in a 16ga+ piece of metal the same width of the frame cap. Or just make another cap to fit into the existing frame cap and weld it in.

 

[Got_All_4]

Ordered these from TRF. The originals as you can see in the pics had boxes welded in them. Looks to be for added support. Concerned on sturdiness. Any supports you think needed welded in? Maybe that's why they were only $54 each.

 

[malbaby]

This was my attempt at strengthening the rear chassis with the body on, and not as per factory.
Your car does not have the chassis part as outlined in first pic. Most 4A's have it.
In your situation I would fabricate a piece similar, but stronger than that.
Box in the supports of the front diff/suspension mount cross member, likewise the rear diff mount.
Then brace the three together at the top so as to form a rectangular shape, linked to the bridge as outlined.
I welded a 65mm x 8mm steel plate 900mm long into the inside of the centre rails, centred at the weakest part. 65mm is a nice snug fit.
Remove the top and bottom cruciform plates and weld on larger stronger ones.
This may be OTT, but does strengthen the sections of the chassis that flex.

 

[Got_All_4]

Got the driver side tacked in. Also wanted to stiffen up the new trailing arm rails so came up with 2 extra diveders inside. They are shaped with a tab sticking up and I cut a slot into the cap so the tab will slide into it when covered. Stands proud about 1/16 of an inch so I've got some meat to weld to. Hope it does the job. Next weekend the other side

 

[malbaby]

Your trailing arms will be the strongest part of the chassis

 

[Got_All_4]

I also plan on removing the bottom T shirt and welding in a 1/8"x2 1/2"x30" plate on the inside of the frame rails to help straighten some more in that area. I plan on getting the frame dipped and e-coated inside and out. There has got to be some loss of strength over the years from corrosion. Evidence of all the scale inside the frame. That should cure it at lease for my life time.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I think one of the week points of the frame is the differential bridge. A couple of things that you might want to think about is boxing in the sides of the bridge and welding in some tubes or bars to tie the top of the bridge in to the rear of the chassis.

Cheers
Tush

 

[malbaby]

IMHO...1/8" plate by 30" not strong/long enough to limit the rear chassis flex.

 

[Got_All_4]

I see what malbaby did to box on his and I can agree on that upgrade. Any Ideas how to tie to the frame? I've seen pics of a bar welded from the top of the differential bridge to the shock bridge. Don't see where that would do any good as the differential makes that same connection. I am putting in new pins on the Diff bridge and have a 3/16 plate to weld on the top to support the top plate. Min is not cracked like a lot of them but must be weak from the rust.

If 30" is too long what length would you suggest and why? I have the pieces cut already but not going to be able to get to them till probably sunday. I plan on finishing the trailing arm cross members and the support bars then do the diff bridge.

 

[malbaby]

I refer you to my post of 25th Feb...Suggest you fabricate something similar to the green outlined bridge, but stronger and longer.
Then tie that to the front diff/suspension bridge and then to the rear diff bridge.
IMHO..the important strengthening component to reduce the rear chassis flex is linking the rear chassis to the mid similar to pic 4. You could make a much better link as you have a bare chassis to work on.

 

[Got_All_4]

Did some more work this past weekend. Welded in the 1/8" supports. Turned out well. Also the trailing arm cross-members are in permanently now along with a new lower "T" shirt. Going to replace the front diff pins and box in the tower and pin supports this next weekend. Should be done and ready to go to the stripper.

 

[Got_All_4]

Drilled out the pins today. Boxed in the support bracket for the diff hanger. Hope to finish Sunday. Got a question hoping someone can help. Don't think I need to completely box in the pin brackets. Take a look at one of the pics where I made a template out of red cardboard. I'm proposing using that design to give it some more strength.by tying the pin bracket into the top cross member and where I boxed in he support bracket. The other design I was thinking of was going all the way across with a piece of flat stock and tying both pins into each other and into the other support bracket. I just didn't know if the diff would interfere with the bracket.

 

[ed_h]

Most people just do something like this and it seems to be plenty good.

 

[Got_All_4]

You shouldn't work when your tired. After thinking about it some more I was looking at the easy way out. Would not have had a good way to weld in the pins. Hard enough as it is without another bracket in the way.

 

[Got_All_4]

All of the structural stuff is done. Pins welded in and boxed in. Also added a 3/16" plate on the top. My top plate was not cracked but the parts car I bought one of the pins fell out when I removed the diff. Had a 4" crack in it. Pin is welded to the top plate and also to the support plate. Got the pins cherry red with acetylene torches to get deep penetration when I migged them into place. Next step is to take it to the acid dipper which will remove all the rust inside and out. Then they dip it into e-coat. Should be good and sealed for my life time and hopefully for years after my kids have it.

 

[Got_All_4]

Although this work has been done for months now I've been waiting for some states to start opening up and got the call yesterday that the stripper is now open. Will be on my way Thursday. Frame will get acid dipped and all the rust and non metallic stuff will disappear. Now there's a good etched surface for the E-coat to stick to and when I get it home I'll start filling the cavities with Body Wax. Like Wax Oil where it will seep into the seams and then set up but always soft underneath the top skin layer. I'll set the frame up on the driver side then spray it then the passenger side and let the wax flow into the respective seams. This frame should out last 2 life times. Hopefully by the end of June I'll have a rolling chassis. if you want to keep seeing pics let me know.

 

[Frank Canale]

I am interested in your frame coating . I looked into Ecoating my TR3A frame and was cost prohibitive. I could only find one place that would do it. The cost was $1200 plus 2 trips to Mississippi, one to deliver the frame and one to pick it up a week later. I could not find anybody in the south that would acid dip the frame. The company I found sandblast the frame then puts it in an oven to strip any remaining paint, rust ,grease that might remain inside the frame. Then it went to the Coating tanks. Frank