TR4/4A Starting long dormant TR engine..start up procedures?

[Willie_P]

I pulled my Tr4 engine from the chassis almost 10 years ago to the month. It has not ran since. I have stored it in the corner of a non-climate controlled garage in the Northeast through intense Summer humidity (think sweating cement floor) and sub-zero winter weather. the carb/intake and distributor were stored inside of my home. all holes/orifices on the engine were blocked-off appropriately.

the engine was rebuilt about a year prior to my removing it, as was the carbs and gearbox. (the body was not restored, which was the reason I did all of this in the first place). the car/engine was in complete running/driving order before I removed the engine and I'd been regularly driving the car with no mechanical issues.

I drained the engine of coolant, but kept motor oil in it. I regularly poured oil through the head and judiciously through the intake valves. 2x per year I would hand crank the engine a couple of revolutions using a big lever i would bolt to the fan hub extension.

the engine has been remounted, oil changed, new spark plugs gapped/installed, carb/intake remounted, coil, wires, starter, etc, etc, etc...all of that is ready to go.

I'm familiar with the general procedures for re-starting an engine, but are there any "special" tips like, using old spark plugs (instead of the new ones) in case it fouls, etc? I'd appreciate any help.

 

[TR3driver]

Hard to say where "general procedures" leave off and "special" tips begin. But one thing I would do is remove the plugs and spin the engine with the starter until the oil pressure comes up. That will ensure that any excess oil in the cylinders gets thrown out, reducing the chances of fouling plugs, etc.

Oh, and don't forget the coolant. Sounds like a joke, but I've seen it done.

 

[Willie_P]

I've watched my fair share of "Fast & Loud" and "American Hot Rod" - I'm practically an expert of all the things NOT to do when firing up an engine. Your tip on the plugs was the one that I was hoping to hear...

 

[TomMull]

Mine sat that long in a Northeast barn. I did none of the preventative measures that you wisely did. I connected the battery, checked the oil and water and it started right up. My guess is that yours will too.
Randall's advice is excellent, particularly if you have a new dry oil filter.
Tom

 

[JerryVV]

Warranty has long ago expired. As I recall the pistons and liners were new, the cam came from one of my engines and was in excellent shape, the head was done and I believe we used good and verified OE lifters. Crank was cut by the previous owner and we made sure the oil passages were clean and clear. I like the idea of using old plugs.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Our own former moderator, Tony Barnhill wrote up an excellent checklist titled "Awakening a Sleeping MGB", and it's actually pretty generic and very comprehensive.

Here's what I saved a while back. If you can't access it, let me know and I can email it to you.

View attachment Awakening MG.pdf

Mickey

 

[Willie_P]

thanks Jerry. If all goes well (still need to get an interior into it), it will make it onto the show field at BCD on 7/18 under its own power. -w

 

[Rut]

Our own former moderator, Tony Barnhill wrote up an excellent checklist titled "Awakening a Sleeping MGB", and it's actually pretty generic and very comprehensive.

Here's what I saved a while back. If you can't access it, let me know and I can email it to you.

View attachment 37850

Mickey

Excellent information and it's worked well for my variety of LBCs...sure do miss Tony and his knowledge.
Rut

 

[Willie_P]

the PDF checklist is quite helpful. a couple of additional questions (based on the checklist) perhaps someone can shed some light on;

I installed a brand new gas tank. And with the engine being down so long, the fuel pump hasn't cranked either - my car has a mechanical pump. So, should I just put a "little" gas in the tank itself or maybe (instead) just put some gas in the fuel pump bowl (glass) and not have the worry of having a partial tank of gas in a car that might not start (Due to some other issue).

my other question; back-flushing the engine coolant lines. Any suggestions/best practices to do this? fyi - i installed a new radiator and all new rubber hoses to entire cooling system. the only areas that would need to be removed of any "crud" per the document would be the internal engine lines/channels.

 

[AHS]

Sorry - I don't mean to hijack - but I've got one that needs started after 29 years in a barn untouched. A week ago I put MMO in all the cylinders and a day ago I poured a little motor oil down each pushrod hole, the theory being some will flow out onto the cam lobes. I haven't attempted to rotate it yet. Is there anything else I can do before I try to spin it?

 

[Mickey Richaud]

the PDF checklist is quite helpful. a couple of additional questions (based on the checklist) perhaps someone can shed some light on;

I installed a brand new gas tank. And with the engine being down so long, the fuel pump hasn't cranked either - my car has a mechanical pump. So, should I just put a "little" gas in the tank itself or maybe (instead) just put some gas in the fuel pump bowl (glass) and not have the worry of having a partial tank of gas in a car that might not start (Due to some other issue).

If it were me, I'd either fill the fuel pump bowl or run a line to a gas can or other container temporarily for initial startup.

my other question; back-flushing the engine coolant lines. Any suggestions/best practices to do this? fyi - i installed a new radiator and all new rubber hoses to entire cooling system. the only areas that would need to be removed of any "crud" per the document would be the internal engine lines/channels.

Can you fit a hose to the heater outlet on the engine and flush it? Or pick up a kit from the usual parts stores - should have everything you need.

Good luck and keep us posted!