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Starting Engine on rolling chassis - a good idea?
- Thread starter PatGalvin
- Start date
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TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
-on mine? SU HS6 along with a longer intake. The float chambers are outside the carbs. TR4nut has a very similar set-up, and before pulling his engine, he checked the intake with carbs and cleaners for clearance. It is close, but it fit.
I don't know what Frank has under his hood -er... ...under where the hood will be, but it doesn't look like stock a pair of TR3 SU H6.
I don't know what Frank has under his hood -er... ...under where the hood will be, but it doesn't look like stock a pair of TR3 SU H6.
TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
I don't think they have to be. I purchased these off ebay, and the seller told me there were several configurations, and if what I have wouldn't work to let him know and he could fix me up. -I'm pretty sure they will work. I know the engine runs and it fits well -without the body.
OP
PatGalvin
Jedi Warrior
Offline
So, quick question on temporary wiring.
Power goes through ignition switch (FLAPS toggle switch) and then to positive side of coil (negative earth car). Pertronix Ignitor has two wires, red to positive side of coil, black to negative side. That's it. Distributor is grounded through contact with block? Block is grounded/wired back to negative battery terminal.
For high torque starter, plan to wire positive terminal of battery to starter. Use integral solenoid in starter and wire a FLAPS push button switch between positive side of battery and starter solenoid terminal?
If I can find my dash and pull my oil pressure gauge, I might kick her over tonight and see if I make oil pressure. Then, with a little fuel (and some carbs mounted) and a full radiator of coolant, maybe I'll start her tomorrow. Will static time her first, of course. Advance Distributors (Jeff) says set timing at 12-14 degrees BTDC.
What is best source for simple SU setup and initial tuning (just rebuilt)?
Sorry so many questions. Don't want to screw this up. Hope to have videos to share on Sunday. Wish me luck.
Pat
Power goes through ignition switch (FLAPS toggle switch) and then to positive side of coil (negative earth car). Pertronix Ignitor has two wires, red to positive side of coil, black to negative side. That's it. Distributor is grounded through contact with block? Block is grounded/wired back to negative battery terminal.
For high torque starter, plan to wire positive terminal of battery to starter. Use integral solenoid in starter and wire a FLAPS push button switch between positive side of battery and starter solenoid terminal?
If I can find my dash and pull my oil pressure gauge, I might kick her over tonight and see if I make oil pressure. Then, with a little fuel (and some carbs mounted) and a full radiator of coolant, maybe I'll start her tomorrow. Will static time her first, of course. Advance Distributors (Jeff) says set timing at 12-14 degrees BTDC.
What is best source for simple SU setup and initial tuning (just rebuilt)?
Sorry so many questions. Don't want to screw this up. Hope to have videos to share on Sunday. Wish me luck.
Pat
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Good Luck Pat,
Makes me want to go and try to start mine up
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
Makes me want to go and try to start mine up
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd