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John Turney said:
AGM batteries have two advantages: They don't self-discharge as quickly as wet cells, and they don't spill if you roll your Healey. If you roll your Healey, battery acid spills are the least of your worries. I use Costco batteries and they are just fine.
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If wet cell batteries get overcharged somehow they can (will) make a mess in your boot. My car has been on a BatteryMinder for a few months while the engine got rebuilt, and now there's evidence of overcharging--the crunchy, white residue on the holddown bracket--on my battery and one of the cells was low. First time I've had this happen with a BM; don't know if it's the battery or I left the charger on too long (supposedly, this shouldn't be a problem with a 'float charger').
 
John Turney said:
AGM batteries have two advantages: They don't self-discharge as quickly as wet cells, and they don't spill if you roll your Healey. If you roll your Healey, battery acid spills are the least of your worries. I use Costco batteries and they are just fine.
Click to expand...
Many times batteries have to be tipped slightly to be installed in older cars, so having a non-spilling battery is a HUGE benefit.

AGM batteries are also generally lighter. When trying to sandwich one into a C3 Corvette with your fingertips, that is also a notable benefit.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
If wet cell batteries get overcharged somehow they can (will) make a mess in your boot. My car has been on a BatteryMinder for a few months while the engine got rebuilt, and now there's evidence of overcharging--the crunchy, white residue on the holddown bracket--on my battery and one of the cells was low. First time I've had this happen with a BM; don't know if it's the battery or I left the charger on too long (supposedly, this shouldn't be a problem with a 'float charger').
Click to expand...

Overcharging an AGM will ruin it.
 
Followup: I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried).

Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done.
 
Bob,

Too bad there wasn't some wayback machine that we could figure out how these cars ran as new. My first car was a '59 bugeye that I bought from my cousin in 1967. By then, the starter failed and I bought a couple at the junkyard for $15 to keep it going. Very few of us know what an original car worked like and they probably didn't last more than three years before they started needing replacement parts. So maybe a car with parts worked back to original standards would work fine, but after a few years, not so much.
 
Rick,

Had the same thoughts. I bought my BJ8 at 64K miles, so the starter was probably close to needing overhaul already. My dad and I did a 'quickie' overhaul--brushes, and turned commutator; don't recall if we put in new bushes but it's not like us to not do those--but I don't remember it working a whole lot better. The overhauler also re-wrapped the field coils, but I doubt that made the difference. I think starters just wear down gradually, so you don't notice they spin a teensy bit slower every start.
 
Bob,

Exactly my point. Stuff in the '50s and '60s didn't last as long as it does now. A new car got traded in every two years. No one expected a starter to last more than three years. So we can't expect an original starter to make it more than a few years. If you want to go longer than that, you need to upgrade to something newer or rebuild to original and hope it will last for three years.
 
Hi All,

For those who appreciate the original sound of a Healey, the original Lucas starter also has its own sound and you may not appreciate the change when going to a GR Starter. Again, zingy sound, reliability and performance or sweet original sound and adequate power, that is your choice.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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RAC68 said:
Hi All,

For those who appreciate the original sound of a Healey, the original Lucas starter also has its own sound and you may not appreciate the change when going to a GR Starter. Again, zingy sound, reliability and performance or sweet original sound and adequate power, that is your choice.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
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Since the Healey experience is "Performance Art", these components are all part of the performance!

I'm a bit of an apostate, having a Facet fuel pump. I draw the line at the engine note - it is the heart of the Healey. Many of us put different exhausts on our Healeys - but they all sound like Healeys.
 
Bob,

To address your original question, I suggest having the starter rebuilt, including new paper, and ensuring the engine ground strap is attached to one of the starter bolts, with all paint removed from where the ground strap touches the starter/bell housing, and where it touches the frame. I would also ensure that the battery ground strap attachment point in the trunk is paint-free.

I have over 20,000 trouble free miles on my rebuilt original Lucas starter, with around 180 psi compression in all 6 cylinders (10:1 compression ratio pistions).

For what it's worth, I too went with the Optima red-top battery, primary to eliminate a container of acid in the trunk. The only disadvantage, other than cost, is if you let it run down, you need to connect it to another battery to recharge it. (see the battery owners manual)
 
I have a GR starter that I bought a few years ago direct from Gustusfan (sp?). It included an adapter plate with it. I am waiting until I really need to replace my starter (it is still turning over really well) before I install it. I have heard there are clearance problems with the GR installation. Is that adapter plate really needed on a 1967 BJ8?
 
Just put a Factory rebuilt starter on my baby. The starter jumped out of the box. The car jumps to Life now too. If you are having trouble and think your battery is low but it is not, it is your old starter. Don,t wait until you give someone a heart attack pushing you, just change it. Got mine on eBay for $ 250.
 
Jeffry said:
Just put a Factory rebuilt starter on my baby. The starter jumped out of the box. The car jumps to Life now too. If you are having trouble and think your battery is low but it is not, it is your old starter. Don,t wait until you give someone a heart attack pushing you, just change it. Got mine on eBay for $ 250.
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A gear reduction starter is less than that and will spin her faster . And its smaller and lighter .
 
Yes, but it it comes with instructions! Did not want to read anything or get dirty too long. I drive her every day.
 
I am surprised that no one has picked up on the "rebuilt engine" clue. Sounds to me like that motor is
tight, and once it's hot it gets even tighter. Having the starter rebuilt won't hurt, however be sure to
change the oil after 500 Mi. and when you do run some kerosene through it, and let the oil sit in the
pan overnight. Then carefully dump it and check the pan bottom for grit. The engine should loosen up
over time. A local electric motor shop can reface the commutator on the starter for you.
 
I'm not selling GR starters, though my 3000 came with one, but will share a short story. A member of our Healey club had installed a rebuilt engine in his 3000, and the original starter didn't have enough grunt to start the rebuilt engine. A club member gave our guy a GR starter, and when he cranked it over the car started with such alacrity that it startled the club members who were looking on. They were still talking about it days later. It's a measure of our club, St. Johns Austin Healey Club in the Jacksonville area, that when our member got the car running and found he was now facing a bum transmission, a club member came up with a spare gear box that works just great--our guy likely will eventually have his box rebuilt because he is interested in originality. The guy who provided the gear box had earlier given me a sound Healey differential in which I had professionals install a new UK-sourced 3.5 ring and pinion gear set. Club members helped me put the rebuilt differential in my car, while the one we removed went back into our club member's stash. I think the message here is that joining a Healey club provides more than just having others with a shared interest, it's part of a brotherhood. Since I am doing one of my frequent blabs, I will also reveal that the Brit car clubs, Triumph, MG, Healey, Jag, etc., are fighting back against declining memberships by sharing more of our car events. It is looking promising for we Brit car guys in the Jacksonville, FL, area.
 
When I fitted the gear reduction starter in my own car, the first time I hit the button it started so fast that it scared me and I immediately, and instinctively shut it off! I sat there laughing at myself for a minute before starting it again.

My old started was suffering from grounded coils, and even on a good day, could barely start the car__got tired of keeping my fingers crossed ;)
 
Randy Forbes said:
When I fitted the gear reduction starter in my own car, the first time I hit the button it started so fast that it scared me and I immediately, and instinctively shut it off!
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Same thing happened to me after I installed a rebuilt stock starter in my BJ8 with an 800CCA AGM battery.
 
Me too. I bought a rebuilt Lucas starter from Moss 2 years ago (the threads on the shaft of my old one were really messed up).

It works really well, and spins the engine faster then I expected. (And I thought my old starter was fine except for the shaft....)

But it still has that nice vintage sound, especially on cold mornings on a 5 year old Autozone battery :smile:
 
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