TR6 Starter energizes when in RUN Position......

[Gliderman8]

So Sunday I started my car as normal, but when I released the ignition switch from START to RUN the starter stayed energized. I shut it off and tried it again and it was fine.
Today, I just turned the ignition key and when it got to the RUN position, the starter engaged (and stayed engaged).... I never did turn the key further clockwise to reach the START position.
Could it be the starter relay?
Ignition switch? or
Starter solenoid?
Anyone have a similar problem?
Thanks for the group help!

Note: car is a '73 but it has a '74 wire harness with the starter relay.

 

[Bruce100]

sounds like the switch to me. Don't see how it could be anything downstream, if it engages in run. Maybe a short? Did you move/mess with the wires behind the dash recently?

 

[Mickey Richaud]

+ 1 on the switch. How does the action "feel" as far as spring return to run position - any difference from usual?

 

[Gliderman8]

I have not been under the dash or touched the ignition switch wires... the switch action feels like normal.
Am I correct that just the "switch can be replaced so I can keep it keyed the same?

 

[mrv8q]

Am I correct that just the "switch can be replaced so I can keep it keyed the same?

Yes, the back half of the switch is held together with a very tiny phillips head screw. You might try disassembling the switch; I did that to my '74, which helped for another year, until the switch died completely...

 

[Gliderman8]

Kevin- I think I just might take a shot at doing exactly what you suggest... disassemble and clean to see if that helps.
If not, I will be forced to order another.
Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

[DNK]

Take a couple of Naproxn before you assume the position under the wheel

 

[Gliderman8]

Take a couple of Naproxn before you assume the position under the wheel

You could not be more right... I feel like a contortionist under the dash. My body is bending in ways I never knew it could :rolleye:
Right now I wrestling with getting the nuts off of the padded key switch surround right below the steering wheel so I can have room to remove the switch; wish there is a better way to reinstall when I go to put it back together.

 

[DNK]

Careful with those nuts when you're in that position:wink::wink:

 

[Gliderman8]

:shocked: Just removed the switch and got it apart... check out the condition of the contacts....eeeek!
As usual you guys seem to be spot on that the switch is fubar. I'll clean it up and see how it goes.

 

[mrv8q]

Yep, that looks like mine did, way back when, down to the green corrosion. Good luck!

 

[Gliderman8]

I guess after 40 years it's bound to look all corroded. I've already cleaned it up and tomorrow I will pickup up some dielectric grease for the contacts before I reassemble it.

 

[DNK]

Show us an AFTER pic Elliot!
Geez, what are you?
NEW??

 

[Gliderman8]

Here you go.... contacts all cleaned and ready for another 40 years.

 

[DNK]

What did you use
You got a video?

 

[Gliderman8]

I used electrical contact cleaner and some 800 grit crocus paper.... no video
Ran out of Lucas switch cleaner :rolleye:

 

[DNK]

Hmmm...I would have scrubbed the bagesus out of it with a dremel tool

Guess that's why yours runs and mine sits

 

[Gliderman8]

A dremel might take off too much of the copper rendering the contacts useless. Unfortunately the locking tabs broke off during the reassembly; the metal case is real thin gauge metal so it was inevitable to happen. Right now I have the switch clamped together and have epoxy on the locking tabs. By tonight it should be hardened so I can reinstall.
By the way, I tested the switch before epoxying and it worked great.