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Sprite engine

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VictorVictor

VictorVictor

Freshman Member
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For those who responded to may last post, this will sound familiar. I recently wanted to change the gadgets in my 65 sprite including the conversion set. The work was going to be done by me but I was a little afraid since an "armature" is a compliment for me. This is where my neighbor comes in. He told me that he used to work as a mechanic and he would do it for me at a reasonable price; since we get along just fine, I agreed. Now the motor head is just sitting on top (not attached) to the rest of the motor, the carburetor, the exhaust pipe and the head cover were taken off and are sitting in the trunk. My neighbor has not touch the car in about 3 weeks and when asked about he always gives excuses. I’m at the point where I believe he is not going to do anything else to the car. Now this time I will try it my self. Can any refer me to any books about 1275cc engine? I've looked on Moss Motors, Victoria British and ebay but could not find anything on how to change gaskets for armatures of professionals. Any suggestions will realy help.
 
Victor, you should get a copy of the Bentley manual. It's virtually a copy of the factory service manual, and should be in every Sprite owners library. I believe the VB part number is 9-1191.
Gasket replacement is pretty straightforward, with the major concern being properly torquing the head nuts after installation. They are tightened in a specific sequence to a prescribed value. You'll need a torque wrench to accomplish this.
But, and here's the rub. To change the timing cover gasket and seal, the engine is going to have to be, at a minimum, raised in the car to allow access. I prefer to remove the engine totally to do this, which may be a bit much, if you have accurately described your skill level.
What are your reasons for wanting to re-gasket the engine?
Massive leaks, or loss of power? This is generally not something that falls into the category of preventative maintenance.
Whatever your choice, all of us here will be available with tips and advice should the need arise.
Good luck!
Jeff
 
Just ask, be as specific as possible, pics sometimes help.
 
Do not forget to install the hose between the water pump and head before tightening her down.
 
I am trying to put back the cylinder head, but have a few questions. What are the indications that the push rods are not in the same position as before? or how can I tell if they are in the correct insert?
 
That would be hard after they have been removed already. I usually get a shoe-box or piece of cardboard, punch holes for each rod in order and keep track of them that way so that they can be replaced in the same order!
 
Should two of the push rods be sticking out more than the others, preventing the rocker shaft assembly form sitting flush with the cylinder head?
 
There are bound to be a couple in a position to open valves at about any point in the endine's rotation. Trick is to NOT stress the shaft assembly by tightening it down evenly across all pedestals, gradually.
 
Doc

Thanks for changing the avatar, the other one was freaky.

Once again Dr. E is correct.

Pat
 
mehheh. That was ME, Pat... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

I may change it back to the +2 again. An overhead shot this time.
 
aaahhhh

it was just the Clint Eastwood stare Doc.

Pat
 
It's BACK and ~I DIDN'T DO IT~!!!!!

I think The Emperor is funnin' me.


EDIT: Changed it... or rather TRIED to change it, NOW look what a mess I am!!!
 
Sorry if I at anyway contributed to this mayheem.

Pat
 
Hey Viktor.
This isn't a very big problem, to put on a cyl head. All the suggestions above are very good. Two valves will be open in just about any normal position of the engine. That changes slightly when the engine is very close to tdc or bdc. But don't worry about that.

Keeping push rods in the same order that they came out is not absoutely necessary. There is theoreticlly a small difference, nothing that will cause large problems. Maybe the valves will need readjusting after a hundred miles.

One very important part. The block and head surfaces must be absolutely clean. No oil, no rust, no old gasket material, no dirt, no dust. The gasket must be kept clean and preferably in the package until use.

The bypass hose needs to be in place before you set the head down. Bolts are tightened in the order in the book, basically starting from the center bolt and working your way outwards. Doing this in two steps is good. That is first time, about 3/4 of the maximum torque, second time maximum torque.

Once the head is in place and tightened down, fit all the accessories back on. The manifold gasket is nearly as critical as the head gasket because a vacuum leak here will severely affect low speed engine operation. A bit of silicone sealer around the inlet ports helps.

Any specific questiona, just ask.

Donn.
 
DrEntropy said:
mehheh. That was ME, Pat... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
Click to expand...

haha, funny!....we cant all be good lookin enough to put or face on our avatar! u do look a little like jack nicholson though /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif ....z
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

I don't think you have ~anything~ to apologise for Patrick!
 
That he will admit to at least, Mehehehehe!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
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