Sprite Body Work Tips & Tricks For A Novice?

[JPSmit]

I hadn't considered how the insurance would work once it was completed. Thanks!

and, at least here in Ontario, when you transfer ownership you pay tax on the market value of the car - so, we have to transfer ownership before restoring.

 

[equiprx]

When I got my XJS the body was in really bad shape. It seemed as though the P.O. must have been spinning and slamming into everything to do that much damage. The first thing I did was bang out the front right fender so I could replace the broken headlight in order to drive it. The way I did it ruined a panel, that could have easily been repaired by an experienced shop or by myself if I was more patient. Then I jacked out the folded up drivers door of the car so I could open and close it and could actually sit in it without interference from the door interior. Eventually I found a proper door for the car and stripped it down to just the shell myself and left it to be painted by a professional. After only two years some of the paint has cracked and is getting rusty. This is from a shop that specializes in high end cars. I experimented with stud welding and that put holes in the metal instead of pulling out the dent. The panels on the Jag are extremely thick and don't like to be pulled. The P.O. had someone do some drilling, pulling and bondo in a number of places, which turned out to look like crap and will have to be fixed properly. I had inherited hammers and dollies from my father and bought a book called "the guide to bumping metal". This is a small booklet that is worth it's weight in gold. In order to repair dents correctly you need to understand how the dent was generated in the first place. You can't imaging how important that concept is until you do the bumping the correct way and get a smooth repair without filler. The more I do the more comfortable I am doing it and the better the finished product. There is still lots of bumping, welding and sanding left to do and I have spent thousands of dollars on tools I'll never use but it's a learning experience and there are parts on the car that I can run my hand over and realize I did a great job even though it took a long time. As far as tools are concerned, buy a decent set of hammers and dollies. A good MIG welder, if you learn how to use it can be helpful but it's not as easy as soldering like a lot of people said. Once you learn how to feel the shape of the metal you are repairing you will do a better job than ANY shop is likely to do for a customer. Bumping metal is a process of bending, stretching and shrinking the panels so they return to the original shape. It takes lots of looking, planning and restraint to do a good job. Any miracle tools that say will cut hours, days from the job also require professional training to use. Stock up on lots of abrasives and sanding blocks to fit your specially shaped panel parts. Go slow. Fast tools damage panels in a microsecond and that damage is forever. I could go on for a long time about the risks and rewards of DIY bodywork but only getting your hands on it will give you the answers you want.

Hi,

My summer project is to dive into the body work on my 1960 Sprite. I am preparing myself by taking a MIG welding class, reading everything I can on the subject, watching videos about it, etc.

When I first got the car, I though I would just outsource 100% of the body work, but I really want to do this myself for the self-gratification and the significant $$ savings. I do NOT plan on painting the car myself.

My Frogeye has rust in the usual spots; rockers, floors (mostly in the corners), spring boxes, lower extremes of rear fenders, rear apron, and a bit in the boot floor. This is the rust I am aware of. The bonnet appears to be 100% solid.

So, my general question is:

For any experienced or inexperienced body-work folks here, what tips & tricks and advice would you give on the subject of rust repair (cutting/grinding/welding), specifically on the Frogeye, and in general for LBCs?

I appreciate any and all wisdom, even if you say "Don't do it!"

Cheers,

- Chris

 

[Linda]

How is the project coming along? I'll be starting my 59 Bugeye this fall after I get another project out of the garage and on all fours Curious where you are buying your body parts. I have half of my metal and do not want to start till I have everything. Other than Victoria British (Vickie) and Moss are there any other companies or individuals making lower rear panels?
Thanks Linda

62 Deep Pink Sprite
59 Bugeye

https://www.spritespot.com/gallery/Deep-Pink-Sprite

 

[apbos]

Ashley Hinton. You can find him on ebay. He makes many of the panels for Moss etc. Make a list and order all at once. He ships Fed Ex from the UK so shipping is fast and cheaper than the UK post. Also Austin Healey Spares in the UK.

Paul

 

[60Bugeye]

I'm still cleaning small parts, so not much progress since the original post. I also have some overdue maintenance on my Land Rover, so once that is complete, I will resume focusing on the Sprite; first major job will be to finish stripping the body so I can take inventory on the panels I need to order. I am considering ordering all the panels from AH Spares in the UK.