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Spridget vs MGB

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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Ok guys, I know several of you own both and I see a lot of similarities, but a lot of differences as well in the construction of the cars. I bought a 1970 MGB with a bad engine about a month ago as a driver while I continue my long term restoration on the Bugeye. I pulled the engine which was not unlike the Bugeye, took it apart and inspected it, ordered a rebuild kit from Hap, and delivered the engine to the machine shop.
The block should be ready this morning, but in the meantime mission creep has set in. I pulled everything out of the engine compartment for a clean up and respray, replaced the brake and clutch systems, replaced the gas tank and fuel system, installed headlight relays, pulled the splash panels to get to the hinge nuts, etc. While the car is on jack stands I would like to replace the front suspension bushings, but don't know how to go about it. Do you pull the springs the same way as a Spridget? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Posted in the MGB forum as well.
Thanks, Rut
 
Been a while since I owned a B but I've had a couple. As I remember the B loves poly-urethane bushings everywhere except in the rear shackles. Don't remember how I removed the springs but most likely risked my life doing it by undoing the shock with a jack under the spring pan and then lowering the jack. I would use a spring compressor now that lots of parts stores will loan out.

Do recommend a overdrive if you want to be a serious B owner. They really make the car.

Lots of room in a B. You can sleep in one if you have to!

Kurt.
 
Actually, if you are working on the front end of an MGB, the one thing I would recommend is the caster correction shim kit for the front sub-frame that reduces caster.

Mine doesn't have this and even with a big diameter steering wheel, it's a dog at low speeds. I've driven MGBs with this kit and they are much nicer to drive.

You can find it at Moss Motors and other suppliers.
 
Since I have everything disconnected from the front subframe should I just drop it and refurb on the bench? I don't like a harsh ride, but I do like responsive steering, is poly the way to go?
thanks, Rut
 
As I remember the only harshness I got from fitting the poly bushings was when I fitted them to the shackles as I said. I ran a considerably heavier antisway bar on my last B as well since I like a good tight but not harsh handling car. A friend now own's that car and say's he prefer's driving it to his Miata. Miata gets used when he wants AC.

Kurt.
 
" I bought a 1970 MGB with a bad engine about a month ago as a driver which kinda got in the way of my long term restoration on the Bugeye."
 
If I remember correctly, I removed the springs the same way as on my Sprite using two long threaded rods in place of two of the bolts. Ran them out to remove the tension and the spring comes out. I did mine with the sub-frame out. Poly bushings are good. I used Nylatron which were too stiff for street use. MGBs are good cars. If mine had not been a GT, I would have kept it. It was too hot in the summer and fully restored so I did not drive it as much as I would have liked. That reminds me -insulate your floor.
 
histerical said:
" I bought a 1970 MGB with a bad engine about a month ago as a driver which kinda got in the way of my long term restoration on the Bugeye."
Click to expand...

And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that (says a guy who just did the same thing)...
 
My MGB's and MGC were fun, not fun like a Spridget mind you... But they were fun. ;)
 
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