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spray clear over bare metal for primer ?

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beaulieu

beaulieu

Jedi Warrior
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We really need a general restoration section,,,,,

I stripped most of the bondo off the front of the car ,

its worse than I thought , so its not going to get done in a week or 2.

So I need to protect the bare metal from rust ,

its going to be from a spray can as thats all I have right now,

I would like to just spray it with clear , so I can see what I need to do later , any reason why not ?

I could spray it with primer in a can (yeah probably better) , but then I cannot see here the braze (yuck) and bad welds are that I will need to cut out later.....

so will clear hurt anything later ?

Beaulieu
 
What I've used in situations such as this, is a sanding primer. It's made to fill in small scratches and be sanded down. This sandability makes it very easy to sand off when you want to get back down to the bare metal.

As far as the bad sections go, why even protect them if you're going to cut them out?? Just primer the good sections, then you'll see at a glance what work needs to be done.

And your right, a general restoration technique section would be nice. Most restoration processes apply to all model cars.
 
Clear might work to seal out moisture.

As far as primers go, in general there are two types.
Primer/sealer surfacing primer is low porosity & will effectively block moisture.

Sanding primer is porous & will let moisture through to cause rust underneath if exposed to damp conditions for a length of time.

If you are in a damp climate, the clear might actually do a better job of sealing out moisture.
D
 
Yep, sanding primer will allow rust to form within a week if the car is out in the elements (or even in a medium to high humidity area). I have an Eagle Talon that has a horribly rusty roof now, because I figgered that primer would hold off the weathering until I could paint the roof.
 
Hello Beaulieu,

I'm interested to know what is wrong with 'braze', it is a sound metal joining technique used correctly, or appropriately. (As any welding, riveting or even adhesive process should be)

Alec
 
If done properly I guess there is nothing wrong with brazing ,

problem is getting all the flux off it (same as welding aluminum with flux)

the flux reacts to the paint and the paint lifts,


on this car its not the brazing its the bad work and then the brazing ,

Beaulieu
 
While I was working on mine I spot sprayed the bare spots with the clear finish paint I was going to use on the top coat. It worked great and none of the spots rusted. Then wet sanded it off when I was ready to start painting. I have used primer in the past and if it was a long time on there brfore painting the spots would rust under the primer. I used the spray can variety and don't know why it rusted but it did.
Bob
 
Primers generally are porous so they give the topcoat something to bond to. Epoxy primer is a whole different animal, tho. That seems to seal everything out.
 
Epoxy primer is not porous, it is hard and seals, I mean it is tough. This is the first coat after a blast job. It keeps everything stable. Sanding primer is very porous as said above. Regular paint is a bit porous and should be waxed to fill the porus. Clear coat does the same job as waz by filling the poures and keeping everything tight. Clear coat also makes the finish very smooth to reflect the light and even look wet.
 
If the car is not exposed to weather or excess dampness, there is a product called Picklex20 that treats the metal and provides a protective coating that will stop rust for several weeks. The metal remains looking like metal. When the time comes to apply filler, epoxy seal, or paint, scuff the Picklexed area, wipe and tack cloth, then paint (FYI areas treated with Picklex should CANNOT be coated with self etching primer)

The stuff is a bit expensive, but like those of you who are part restorers like me and need more time from prep to paint. This stuff works for me.
 
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