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Spoke wheels - bugeye

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rossco

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When I bought the car, part of what was included was a set of spoke wheels and hubs. Is the changeover difficult? What is the downside? I've never made this change. Should I look for experienced help? Will they look cheesy on the car or is that
just a matter of taste?
 
Depends on your skill and tools. pretty much a bolt on except for the fact that the wire wheel rear axle housing is shorter to make up for more offset on the wire wheels. The best way would be to source a wire wheel rear axle from an early square Spridget. Some have run the wire axles in the stock BE housing by pressing them part way out so that there is equal engagement on the hub and the differential. Also, I am assuming that your BE has been changed over to front disc brakes. If not then you would have to change everything up front over to those as well.

Kurt.
 
Umm-yeah. Sounds more involved than my knowledge/skill levels. Any source of written info I can access? The front brakes are original. Are replacement parts available? Pricey? Tools? I suppose bearings, seals, etc. are all part of this. Thanks for the input. I may have to look for hands on help on this one.
 
Switching to front discs is pretty common but usually involves swapping everything except the shock. Bottom A frame usually needs replacement. If you have an early rear axle out of a quarter elliptic car you can just change the whole axle otherwise I think I would weld up quarter elliptic mounts on the later axle if it were me.

Kurt
 
rossco said:
Will they look cheesy on the car or is that just a matter of taste?
Click to expand...

It is certainly a matter of taste. Me, I'm not a fan for practical reasons. Most wire wheels require inner tubes, and I've had bad luck with tire places being able to install them without pinching the tube. I had an MGBGT with wire wheels -- it looked great, but I kept having flats. I eventually sourced the parts to convert it to regular bolt on steel wheels and was much happier.

As others have said, the front swap isn't hard but the back usually takes finding a complete wire-wheel axle housing (with hubs and axles) to make it plug and play.

You'll also want to consider the condition of the splines on the hubs and wheels that came with your car. If they are used, they may be more worn than you'd want to safely use.
 
Rossco, are the hubs that you have bolt on hubs, meaning they fit direct onto the studs on the outside or the brake drum ? If so, the change to wires is no more difficult than changing 4 wheels. Any pics and we can tell you what you have .... Wires will need rubber liners to cover the spoke nipples on the inside tubes and yes it can be hard to find someone to fit tubes and tires and then balance "old school" for wire wheels.

If they are not bolt on hubs, it gets more complicated fast, as you need to change the following:

You need "disc brake" front stub axles and kingpins - same for wires or standard wheels
Possibly A frames if worn as mentioned above, and definitely new fulcrum pins and cotter pins.
The used front hubs you have will likely need new bearings and that is the safe way to go.
You also need the disc brakes and calipers, and a new 3/4 " Master Cylinder required for discs.

Then at the rear, if you have the hubs with axles of a late model car, then as these are shorter than Bugeye axles, you could press the axle shaft out some to better engage at the diff and at the hub as mentioned above. If they are off a Mk2, then they should be the same length as a bugeye axle, but these are rare.

You also need the 3/4" wheel cylinders, which are available from a Morris Minor, as these are the correct orientation for the Bugeye backing plates and handbrake rods.

All up, doable in a weekend... or two !

Cheers
Lew
 
Lew. A late thank you for your reply. I've been away due to holiday schedule. I'll pull those hubs up for inspection and see what I have.
 
Sounds as though the simpler version bolts over the existing hub and utilizes the lug nut studs. In that case, I have the replacement hubs that are of the more complicated type; a slightly tapered flange that houses a bearing and then 4 bolt holes in a smaller pattern than the lug nuts.
 
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