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Spitfire Spitfire Master Cylinder ter down advice

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JodyFKerr

JodyFKerr

Jedi Knight
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Hey Folks,

I'm attempting to rebuild an extra master cylinder that I had on hand for my Mum's Spitfire. This particular MC is pretty rusted. Any tips/tricks for getting the innards out? I've pulled the snap ring and the rubber inserts. I tried driving it free with a screw driver, it got it to compress a bit, but no return from the spring that I assume is inside there. Right now I have it soaking with penetrating oil hoping it gives.

Jody
 
Need to pull the tip valve. need a large allen to unscrew the retainer..

once that was out i used compressed air in the rear port to pop the guts out..
 
For reference, it's a Girling MC 7466015208

Where is the Tip Valve? I've looked all over the MC and can't find anywhere to use an allen wrench.

Jody
 
Should be located under the resevoir. it will be where the feed is for the front brakes.

needed a 1/2" allen to remove it
 
050%20-%20Copy.JPG


This is what I see when I look under the resevoir. Nowhere to put an allen wrench. I'm starting to wonder if the car has the correct master cylinder.
 
different than the one for my 73.. I have ears on each side of the fill ports to bolt the resevoir on..will get you a pic tomorro..


BTW..mine had a small drip and was shot. the bore was pitted to the point that it needs to be sleeved.
 
Don, was it worth re-sleeving the MC? BP Northwest sells new MCs for your '73 for a little over $200. How much was re-sleeving?

I can't recognize what I see in the picture above. What year Spit are you working on Jody? Is it a single line brake system or dual?
 
checked Apple hydraulics. brass resleeve for a dual master is $95. Stainless is a little more. I bought a new master dur to time constraints. I will have the old one resleeved over the winter.

If you want Apple to sleeve and rebuild it is about $245.

Check their site for a complete price list.
 
dklawson said:
I can't recognize what I see in the picture above. What year Spit are you working on Jody? Is it a single line brake system or dual?
Click to expand...

It's a '78 Spitfire 1500. The photo is of the resevoir mounting point where the tip valve should be. This is why I'm starting to wonder if it's the correct MC. I tried googling the Girling # but got no hits.

Jody
 
Jody,

Your master has the pin on reservoir, right. On the heritage cd it shows a pin in the rear brake fill port that may be holding you up.

I have the earlier tandem cylinder on the 73. It has a the tipping valve in it. Must have been a change when the resevoir changed.
 
Jody,

If your pic shown the inside of the bore, that cylinder is shot and needs to be resleeved in order to be rebuilt. any king of pitting of the bore will cause the master to leak.
 
Don_R said:
Jody,

Your master has the pin on reservoir, right. On the heritage cd it shows a pin in the rear brake fill port that may be holding you up.

I have the earlier tandem cylinder on the 73. It has a the tipping valve in it. Must have been a change when the resevoir changed.
Click to expand...
Yes, there appears to be a pin sticking up slightly on the second fill port. I'll see if I get get it pulled out.

Jody
 
Don_R said:
Jody,

If your pic shown the inside of the bore, that cylinder is shot and needs to be resleeved in order to be rebuilt. any king of pitting of the bore will cause the master to leak.
Click to expand...

The photo's of the fill area, not the bore. I've not seen inside the bore yet as I've not been able to get the guts out.

Jody
 
Update:

Found the pin, I had to drill it out until it would spin free. It's out now, but when applying pressure from my air compressor the inner guts will still not come free. I've filled the inner workings with penetrating oil to see if that'll help free it.

Jody
 
If it's that stuck, the bore is going to be badly pitted. Buy new, have it sleeved, or contact Mickey (on the previous page) about his used core.
 
Yeah,
I think at this point I'm going to give up on this Master Cylinder. I wasn't sure it was going to be any good anyways.

Out of curiosity I drilled through and pulled out (via a pair of pliers and a screw) the upper portion. It was solid rust/mud and quite nasty.

The running car has an MC on it now, I'll just have to pull that MC and rebuild it instead. I just wanted to have a spare on hand.

Jody
 
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