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Spitfire Spitfire gearbox overhaul

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I've put together much worse than that, and the seals still last a long time. So as always, I guess it depends on whether you're willing to take a chance on it leaking again.
 
Go ahead and use it, but test it well after you put the trans back in and before you replace the cover. If it leaks then, replace it. I went for one of the cast iron replacements instead of the alloy, because I kept having trouble with leaking at the fitting. Seems the threads were getting stripped.
 
jdubois said:
I polished the ridge out with 00 steel wool, and there's a barely detectable ring of pitting underneath where the ridge was. I can only see it if I shine a light just right, and I can feel it with my finger but only just.
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Sounds pretty good to me.

I would install the current one and use it. Since you have the gearbox out, you are going to clean up the inside of the bell housing before you put it back, right? So you can watch for future leaks in the slave by a) monitoring the fluid level in the master, and b) checking for any fluid leaks at the bottom of the bell housing, where there is a small drain hole.

If you do have to change the slave, its a pain to pull the gearbox cover, but other than that its pretty easy to get out and swap if necessary.

If you are rebuilding the master as well you might consider DOT-5 fluid.
 
Thanks for the comments on the slave, everybody. I'll give this one a shot, and take the gamble I don't have to pull it later. DOT-5 is a good suggestion. But, in fact, it already has DOT-5 in it. Actually, that's a possible reason for the seal failure right there...
 
Taking it easy again tonight, as it's been a week since we watched the last Heroes and the wife is again bugging me to come watch it. But I did manage to take the old clutch off. The pressure plate looked fine, no missing or distorted fingers, and the driven plate looked fine too. A little glazed, maybe, but I'm not an expert at looking at them so I don't really know. The clutch felt fine while driving and I still don't have any reason to believe the clutch was an issue. But none of this really matters, since I'm replacing it anyway.

Now that the clutch is off, I can see the pilot bushing behind the flywheel. I can wiggle it around freely and pull it in and out with my finger. It's only stopped from coming out by the flywheel. I know we discussed various methods of removing it, but clearly none would be needed here. Is this normal, or should it fit snugly in there? I've got a new bushing, so I might as well put it in. But what's the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning so I can unbolt the flywheel? I was able to get the pressure plate off, but I'm imagining I'll have to immobilize the crank to torque that back on as well.
 
A quick and easy method is to bring one of the pistons near TDC, and feed some soft rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then, break the bolts loose at the flywheel. The rope will stop the engine from turning over without damaging anything. Just be sure to leave enough hanging out to remove the rope after you reinstall the flywheel.
Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff, that was my first thought but wanted somebody else to say it first /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Easiest and quickest way, with a helper is to install a couple of adjoining trans mount bolts or studs if they screw into the bellhousing. Brace them with a screwdriver while you crank on the bolts.

Most car manufacturers have gone to a U-shaped bracket that will grab a couple of the flywheel teeth that has a tube welded on it, so that it can be bolted to the bellhousing, which locks the flywheel in place. Honda/Acura/MB all use them. Maybe you can fabricate one, if you can't find an aide to hold the large screwdriver/prybar.
 
I got a phone message from John down at QM this afternoon. He's finished with the gearbox already and shipping it back on Monday! Ahhh! I'm not ready for it back yet /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif Also not ready to pay for it, as I just got a bill from the Ferrari mechanic this afternoon that made my legs go weak. Yowza, I shoulda stuck to Triumphs... I said that to the mechanic and his eyes went wide with delight at the mention of Triumphs. He brought out his big photo album of his TR3/A/B that he was extremely proud of (he'd built it up from a bits of three different cars)! It was nice to see him standing there amongst several million dollars worth of cars and he was most happy with his TR he'd patched together.

Anyway, I got some rope at the store this afternoon to try and stick in the cylinder to stop the crank from moving so I can get the flywheel off. If that doesn't work, I'll go with Ron's suggestion of using a few bolts and a screwdriver, but I've gotta get a helper for that.
 
jdubois said:
...I got some rope at the store this afternoon to try and stick in the cylinder to stop the crank from moving so I can get the flywheel off. If that doesn't work, I'll go with Ron's suggestion of using a few bolts and a screwdriver, but I've gotta get a helper for that.
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Something I've done several times is to use the largest screwdriver I can find -- the kind/size one uses to pry up manhole covers and dig holes for planting of mature oak trees -- and wedge it so that the tip engages a ring gear tooth and the handle rests on your floor. Not 100% effective if you happen to be working on a dirt driveway outside (don't ask), but it should do the trick.

The things one comes up with when one works alone.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Jeff's rope trick worked like a charm. Flywheel is off and as I suspected the pilot bushing tumbled right out. I fit the new one in and it needed a bit of help to go in, using the clutch alignment tool and a rubber mallet. So whoever it was who first suggested replacing the pilot bushing, thanks. Obviously it needed it.

I've now second guessed myself on the decision not to have the flywheel re-surfaced. It's out anyway, and it should be quick and cheap to do, so I think I'll take it down to the machine shop on Monday.
 
While you are taking things out, if you have access to an engine lift, picking up the engine and attaching the gearbox outside is probably the easiest way to get the box back in.
 
I do actually have an engine hoist, but I'm terrified that if I pull the engine I'll get a really bad case of Shipwright's. So I'm gonna do my best to get the box back on without resorting to that, or I'll have to start a new 'engine rebuild' thread /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif
 
jdubois said:
I do actually have an engine hoist, but I'm terrified that if I pull the engine I'll get a really bad case of Shipwright's.
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LOL I pulled my engine because it really was shot, then I pulled the gbox because the 2nd syncro was weak and the suspension because it was a bit loose and the steering bits because they were there and it was easy to get to and the brakes and...
Almost everything is back together just two minor problems I cant get any gas from the tank to the engine and one of the front brakes is leaking fluid all over and I have already ruined 2 sets of o-rings but once I solve those little problems it should drive like a champ.
 
jdubois said:
So I'm gonna do my best to get the box back on without resorting to that
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FWIW, the plastic "clutch alignment tool" I got from one of the 'big 3' was so loose in the clutch plate and pilot bearing that it was nearly worthless. If you are trying to use one, IMO you should see how far you can move the friction plate with the tool in place (and the pressure plate still loose).

Trying to slide the gearbox home is really not a good time to learn that the clutch plate isn't lined up.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

Up until about 10 years ago, I had no problem "eyeballing" the friction disc location...then I started wearing glasses and couldn't do that any more. Being in need and not having time nor inclination to buy an alignment tool, I simply ripped apart a bad gearbox and used the input shaft from same....
 
My collection of input shafts for that task was alarming at one point. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Laura is away for a few days and that leaves me in charge of our one year old. So I haven't gotten much done, except sitting in my cars and making vrooom, vroom noises while he turns the steering wheel and honks the horn. But hey, at least he's following in dad's footsteps /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

I did get the flywheel down to the machine shop this morning and they resurfaced it while I waited. Five minutes and fifty bucks later it looks good as new. The ring gear, which looked a little beat up to me, looked fine to him. He said he'd replace it for me if I wanted, but that in his opinion I'd just be wasting money.

The gearbox is also on the truck back up to me, so I should have that in my hands tomorrow or the next day. If I'm lucky I'll have the car back together enough to go for a drive this weekend. But based on past experience, I don't feel that lucky.
 
Ok, dumb question of the day. Can I hope to get this throw-out bearing off it's spindle and the new one on by myself, or am I headed back down to the machine shop again?
 
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