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Spitfire Spitfire clutch problem

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TR_JOE250

TR_JOE250

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So here is the story, I put a three piece kit in my 73 about 5000 miles ago and it was working great. I recently replaced the master and slave cylinders with new repro units, flushed the system, filled with dot 4 fluid and bled. The problem is now I have very little pedal and can't get it into reverse while running and first is a chore as well. There was some play at the pedal from ovaling of the hole but I took care of that. I am at a loss and would appreciate any advice that anyone has to offer. FYI slave and master were shot and all parts came from Spitbits. Thanks.
 
sounds like there is still air in the system. IIRC the bleed screw is on the bottom, making it a chore to properly bleed the air out of the clutch. I machined a slot on the other side of the slave so the bleed screw was on the top.
 
Steve, you're correct that the bleed screw should be at the top. Both holes in the slave cylinder should be the same, so it shouldn't require any modification of the cylinder body to put bleed screw and connecting pipe in their "proper" positions.
 
One trick that I use on these that are a pain to bleed is to use a clean oil can (only for brake fluid)and fill it from the bleed screw until the master cylinder is full. Also works for brakes.
 
Thanks for the input guys, but I dont believe there is air in the system, clean fluid throughout and bled several times, no air bubbles. Is there any chance that I have defective/bad parts?
 
TR_JOE250 said:
The problem is now I have very little pedal...
Click to expand...
By this, do you mean there is limited travel, or that there is only a small part of that travel where it feels as if the pedal is doing something to push fluid? It's possible that the pivot pin for the throwout bearing arm is on its way out or gone. Not too difficult to check, as it's kinda visible from under the hood (RH side of the bellhousing).

Or, yes, the new hydraulics could be faulty...or even the pressure plate or driven disc, but that seems somewhat unlikely.
 
Did you have a full pedal since and lose it, or has the pedal been weak since the new parts?
 
Yea, why did the parts get replaced?

assuming that the new parts never worked is the air in the system,

worked then didn't might be the pivot pin fell out, or thrust washer
 
hey joe had the same problem when i changed my clutch system and thought i had all the air out ; i let it sit a couple of days went back rebled it and it works great ; now a firm petal so good luck.rick.
 
I had a lot of trouble bleeding all the air out of my clutch year ago. I ended up removing the slave cylinder from the transmsision because it was tilted down such that air was trapped inside the slave. Bled it, bolted back up and Voila!
 
I heard of a "trick" whereby you wedge the clutch pedal down and take off the master cylinder cap. Then leave overnight.

Never had the need to try it - just saying.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to take another look at everything and bleed system again after I remove the trans tunnel. I've found it's much easier and had more success this way.
 
If you feel adventuresome, Joe, you might try my favorite trick : Pump the pedal up as much as you can, then hold it on the floor for a count of 10. Release it entirely and count 10 again. Repeat the sequence 2 or 3 more times, then take a test drive. I've not tried it on a Spit, but it works great on my Stag & TR, no bleeding required.
 
Well I checked the system over again and bled again several times, no air but it didn't help. I rebuilt the original master, no help. I'm wondering if the slave is a bad component. As I recall now I got it from Napa and it was more than likely made in China. The original was leaking quite a bit, why I replaced it, as was the master. I took apart the old slave. It looks like it only has one seal. Any other ideas guys? I don't relish the idea of pulling the trans but I'm at a loss.
 
How does the pedal feel? "Typical" clutch pedal resistance, or does it just flop down and back up? Does it get any better with rapid pumping? Do you see any bubbles in the clutch master when you pump the pedal?

Oh, and did you check to see if the throwout bearing arm pivot is still in place?
 
I'm with Andy and would like to understand what little pedal means.

Scott
 
This is the pin Andrew is talking about.(arrow) They can wear or fall out and give you the same symptoms as air bad hydraulics.


1975Spitfire237.jpg
 
Can someone help me out here and tell me what I'm looking at and where here?
 
Possibly all wet but the last time I saw one of those was in the 1970's so--- If I remember wrong cut me some slack. ( The real answer will be here soon). That pin is on the PS side of the bell hsg and is the pivot for the T.O. bearing arm. Bob
 
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