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Spin-On Oil Filter Removal [BJ7]

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twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
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It seemed to take a lot of struggling to get my oil filter off this afternoon for the pre-winter oil change.

I tried using two strap wrenches (one with a rubberish strap about 1/2" wide, a second with a wider/thicker strap) as well as a chain wrench. The filter was about 4 5/8" long, which did not leave room for my "cup" style end-grip filter tool. I've got a metal band style oil filter wrench buried in the garage somewhere, but couldn't find it. I also tried a long chisel and hammer, but couldn't get a good angle (yes, I was, indeed, trying to turn the thing in the proper direction for removal). There wasn't enough room to really be able to turn the filter with the bulk of the chain wrench handle nor with the larger strap wrench; the smaller strap wrench could be turned a bit, but getting a grip with it was difficult.

Persistence with the smaller strap wrench deformed the filter somewhat; not sure if that helped the grip, or if keeping the strap closer to the base where it was structurally more sound was the best approach. The new filter is 3 1/2" long (I'd prefer the longer, with the idea of having more filter medium, and I'll put a magnet on the end of it, just because). I did spray brake cleaner on the filter surface to try to clean off some of the oil. Next time I'll do a better job of wiping it clean with either solvent or brake clean. I was also thinking of slipping a series of rubber bands onto the filter as well for the wrench to hopefully get a better grip on it.

Thanks, Doug
 
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twas_brillig said:
.... Next time I'll do a better job of wiping it clean with either solvent or brake clean....
Thanks, Doug
Click to expand...

If this is the gasket you're referring to, it should be coated with a light coat of oil for installation. I like to take a sharpie and write numbers 1 - 4 counter clockwise in 1/4ths around the periphery of the end. Tighten the filter by hand until contact is made, then tighten 3/4 of a turn. The numbers will aid in this.

All I ever need is a band wrench for undoing.
 
I have been known, on occasion, to drive a long phillips head screwdriver clean through an oil filter and used it to twist off a sticky bugger.
It is certainly not the cleanest way to do it and I suggest you look again for your band clamp style wrench before you resort to this sort of violence. You might try oil filter pliers as the attached photo shows. I have used these for years as even if you start to crush the filter housing they are like channel locks and you just notch them down and go again.

Screenshot_20201003-211843_Chrome.jpg
 
Yup, followed the instructions as always and poured a wee bit of oil into the filter to have the clean stuff to spread over the gasket.
Steveg: i gosh danged never thought of the sharpie labelling approach. I normally just look at the labelling, and eyeball in a 3/4 turn from that. Figure I'll try the 1/4, etc., labelling the next time!
 
Some aircraft engine manufacturers recommended/spec'd this stuff for aircraft filter gaskets:

https://www.skygeek.com/dow-corning...0HBzuaonzgo_4DrVuZxYUp_4Fuf4G7AYaApw5EALw_wcB

I use it if it's handy, clean oil in a pinch. Also a great dielectric for our prehistoric wiring systems (the same barrel connectors were used on my dad's Model As). If used in the connectors, it helps inhibit corrosion, which I believe to be at least partially responsible for Lucas gremlins. I bought a tube about 30 years ago and still have 90% left.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Some aircraft engine manufacturers recommended/spec'd this stuff for aircraft filter gaskets:

https://www.skygeek.com/dow-corning...0HBzuaonzgo_4DrVuZxYUp_4Fuf4G7AYaApw5EALw_wcB

I use it if it's handy, clean oil in a pinch. Also a great dielectric for our prehistoric wiring systems (the same barrel connectors were used on my dad's Model As). If used in the connectors, it helps inhibit corrosion, which I believe to be at least partially responsible for Lucas gremlins. I bought a tube about 30 years ago and still have 90% left.
Click to expand...

Bob - I bought some Dow Corning silicone grease - it looks to be the same as far-cheaper Dialectric Grease, such as that from Permatex.

screenshot.2458.jpg
 
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Yeah, I've used other brands of dielectric grease with good results as well (CRC brand IIRC; I've had good results with their other products too). I do think the Dow stuff is just a bit thicker--and possibly more persistent--because it's in a tube and the other brands have to be pushed out of an aerosol can (and there weren't as many alternatives 30+ years ago). I bought the tube of Dow--it was quite expensive; over $20 for an 8oz tube--because it was called-out by one of the engine manufacturers, we were doing a lot of our own maintenance on our planes and I didn't want to take any chances. I think silicone-based lubricants and sealants are pretty good across-the-board (the silicone lubricants are supposed to dry and leave a film; excellent for speedos, tachs and their cables). The Dow stuff didn't change its consistency over all these years but aerosols sometimes go flat before you can use all of it--looking at you, Kroil--which is pretty annoying.

I'm kind of a wonk on this stuff; I have a background in chemistry and I like to experiment and see what works best in different applications (my dad looked askance at me more than once). Aviation Form-A-Gasket is the go-to for paper gaskets, esp. since it's less likely to form a glob and fall off (there's a video on the 'net with a guy emphasizing this aspect). They say it remains 'tacky,' but it seems to me it forms a glaze and is easier to remove treated gaskets than some other products. 3M 'Upholstery Glue'--aka 'Yellow Snot'--is best for gluing boot seals, and it comes in black (which is a couple bucks more than the yellow-go figure). My BJ8's head has a misshapen valve cover surface, and I had leaks until I started using yellow snot to glue the gasket in place and a thin bead of blue RTV on the mating surface (I can usually reuse a couple times). Sealants and adhesives have come a long way over the years; some body repair is done with a glue, and the aluminium-framed Morgans use a glue to attach the pieces together.

I agree most gaskets can be used 'dry,' but done properly a good sealant just might eliminate one of the spots on the garage floor. The repop gas tank in my BN2 had a poorly-made sender flange, and I tried all the new, 'improved' gaskets with no luck and I finally solved the problem with a couple cork gaskets with a thin film of fuel-resitant Permatex on them (took longer screws, though; don't tell the concours guys ;)).

I'm not quite as picky about tightening oil filters; I have my own torque measurements for such situations: finger-tight, wrist-tight, elbow-tight, shoulder-tight and hips-tight. I tighten my spin-ons to wrist-tight.

Don't get me started on which solvents to use ;)

Edit: I live in California so sometimes have to get 'creative' with chemical solutions. My rule-of-thumb is: "If it's banned in California, it works best;" sometimes, I can 'order in.' The good carb cleaner--the stuff that comes in a gallon can with a dunk basket--was banned years ago and I still haven't found a good substitute (lacquer thinner works, but I can't usually get that either). Mineral spirits, which works good in parts cleaners, is over $25/gallon if you can find it (Dad said he used to get it for $0.25/g back in the day).
 
Krikey! There's a whole bunch of guys here that are a heck of a lot smarter than this boy! The idea of (1) marking the exterior of the filter at 90 degrees is brilliant; (2) writing date (and mileage?) on the dang think is also brilliant. ANd the essay on sealants brightened my day. Thanks guys! Doug
 
I have always written mileage and dates on all my filters. Have it written on maintenance sheet and in a notebook in the glove box. Can't forget.
 
Yeah BOB :

I live in California too so:

I know what u mean , I see products on line all the time whch can not be shipped to California .

On the other hand :
U can pick them up locally at stores in ca i wonder how they got there--LOL
 
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