• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Speed bleeders worth it?

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi all,

Is anyone using speed bleeders on their cars? Do you think they are worth the extra cost?

I use a "Mityvac" with limited success, usually end up doing the traditional pedal pumping bleeding method anyway... and it's usually messier than I'd like.

Thanks in advance!

Alan
 
I have a friend who swears by SpeedBleeders but I can't say I've ever tried them (or wanted to) myself. If you like them the "extra cost" is inconsequential, they're pretty cheap.

I have both a MityVac and an EeziBleed and find that both work but neither is great. I've been meaning to put together either a DIY pressure bleeder or a vacuum pump based system.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif


PC.
 
I swear by SpeedBleeders. I can't imagine doing brakes the old fashioned two-person way, especially since on a Midget you technically need three people!! I installed the SpeedBleeders at all four corners and it has been a huge advantage for me. I've done a lot of brake work recently (upgrade here, upgrade there as budget allows) and let me tell you, each time it came time to re-bleed the brakes I was thankful I had SpeedBleeders. Also, you need to check your manual and make sure you use the proper bleeding sequence. I had always used the old one-at-time method of starting at the corner farthest from the master cylinder and working around but that doesn't work on later Midgets because of the distribution block/pressure warning switch. If you do it that way you get mushy brakes. The manual says to do BOTH passenger sides and then BOTH drivers sides (I believe this is to make sure that the piston stays centralized in the pressure warning switch) anyways, hence why you would need three people (one to pump and two to work the bleeders). With the SpeedBleeders I just open up two at a time and pump away and I'm done in a snap, gravy train with biscuit wheels. That's my input, I think they're worth every penny and it wasn't that expensive.

JACK
 
Sounds really cool. I just ordered a set for my TR6.

This should make life easier /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
uh oh, Bugeye58 is going to get me again, and he's right, but when I wrenched some years ago and the rich BMW guys would come in for their annual brake fluid change, this is what I did. Car in the air, all wheels off. Start furthest away from master cylinder, working closer. Open the bleeder valve, hooked to a vacuum line which was submerged in a container of (yes) water. Begin pumping. When the old fluid came out, it was quite visible, and when the new fluid began coming out, you could see that as well. The water will not come back up into the wheel cylinder. Quick, easy, no expensive tools to buy, but - what do you do with the now yukky water/fluid solution. But then, to be honest, what do you do with the old fluid when using an expensive bleeder? Hide it in your used engine oil to take to AutoZone next month?
 
"what do you do with the now yukky water/fluid solution. But then, to be honest, what do you do with the old fluid when using an expensive bleeder?" Weed killer man. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have always done it the old fashioned way and it works well enough for me. The speed bleeder seems pretty cool, and some day I may look into it but now I don't see much of a reason to. God gave us girl friends for a reason. I mean someone has to pump.
 
Yes, great bonding experience for making her feel a part of the hobby... no kidding, I think she enjoys helping when she knows the help is really needed.

BTW Alan, in case you didn't notice, the bleeder farthest from the m/c on a TR4 is the LR (somewhat counter intuitive).
 
Thanks to everyone for the great feedback!

One reason I was asking if Speed Bleeders were worth the cost was that I had over-estimated the total. I am looking now at Summit Racing's website and see that a pair costs under $10. I originally thought that was their price per bleeder (my local parts store sells them singly, not in pairs). So, we're looking at under $20 to set up the car completely, and I need to replace the front caliper bleeders anyway. The rear slave cylinders are new, including the bleeders.

Yes, Geo, that's a good point. I am working on a frame-off restoration and recently installed all new brake lines and hoses. The LR is definitely the furthest from the MC, then the RR, then the LF, then the RF.

On this car it might be more accurate to tell people to start from the furthest from the 5-way union that's mounted on the right front main frame tube, rather than using the MC as a reference (left firewall). If you happened to use the physical distance from MC to slave or caliper as a guide, rather than the actaul length of the tubing, you would end up with the wrong sequence.

Of course, if I change the car to a dual circuit brake system, the bleeding sequence might change. I've considered it, but haven't done so yet. We'll cross that bridge if and when we come to it.

Thanks again! Cheers!

Alan
 
I went to the website, and called the 800 number listred there. I ordered the bleeders for my TR6, and they were $7 a piece. $28 total I did'nt think was too bad,...considering what they do. the time savings will be well worth the price.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...what do you do with the old fluid when using an expensive bleeder? Hide it in your used engine oil to take to AutoZone next month?

[/ QUOTE ]Paul, since you're in Dallas you can check at:https://www.dallascityhall.com/

They say, " Never mix used motor oil with trash, antifreeze, degreasers, brake fluids or other automotive chemicals."

further they say:

Safe, free disposal of household hazardous waste

Dallas residents now have two additional options for disposing of unwanted household hazardous waste, including used motor oil. Disposal is free. Residents must provide a photo identification and recent utility bill stub to prove residency in Dallas.

* A permanent drop-off collection facility, located near downtown, will accept your hazardous waste. Call the Home Chemical Collection Center at (214) 630-9160 to make an appointment.
* Dallas residents can take wastes to any household hazardous waste collection event held in Dallas County. Call (214) 904-3017 to find out when the next collection event will be held near you.

Report water polluters!

(214) 670-5000

City of Dallas Public Works & Transportation Dept.
Storm Water Quality Division
2721 Municipal Street, Room 12
Dallas, Texas 75215


PC.
 
Back
Top