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For main street sat nite show-off :NGK BP7HS or better the iridium equivalent.
For exactly similar performance without the bling: Champion L87Y.
The little secret on ignition: get your dizzy innards and coil from Martin Jay, the distributor doctor. Real magician, nice guy, correct prices. rebuils 'em too.
The big secret : NO electronics.
Ask the man who just passed the 40 years mark at at the wheel.
It was many many years, but I went to a local auto parts place (way before the big box stores) and they dug out whatever Champion plug Triumph originally recommended (do not recall the plug number). The counter guy was amazed they had them in stock. But my TR3 ran better on those than anything else.
Another vote here for Champion (L-87Y) plugs here. I've played with a number of brands over the years, yet I always ended up back with the Champions. In recent years and just for fun, I've even played with NOS plugs from KLG and Lodge...and then went back to Champions in the Herald. Oddly enough, the only other brand I was ever happy with -- this in my GT6+ -- was AC!
BP6HS was the correct heat range NGK plug for leaded fuel, but slightly hotter BP5HS plugs run cleaner with less carbon build-up on unleaded fuels. I've now had about ten years good experience with the BP5HS plugs in a standard TR engine, save for a tubular exhaust.
I know this doesn't answer your question but I've tried a bunch of different <span style="color: #000000">spark plug</span> manufacturers and temp ranges to settle on a L87YC Champion Spark Plug. Then adjust mixture.
Hi. I have a TR3, 1956 model. I'm having issues with the spark plugs as they fail in a very short period of time, it's not due to carbon deposits. Some of the plugs go open circuit. I've tried the NGK and the champion plug. Any suggestions on the cause?
How to identify counterfeit spark plugs: Check these 5 features: 1. electrode, 2. cutting marks on caulking, 3. Smudges, 4. LOT number, 5. c-groove marks
From what I've read recently, there is a big problem these days with counterfeit plugs. Especially the NGK ones. It's mainly with the resistor plugs, which these days is about everything, and apparently the bogus ones can be identified by measuring the resistance between the tip and connector. The bogus ones are all over the place, and the real ones are consistent. Most NGK plugs are 5000 ohms, if I remember correctly.
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