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Tips
Tips

Spark plug question?

If you were under 1.5Lbs. psi, I would worry about delivery. Considering that most gauges (unless you have a $400 calibrated unit) have a plus/minus 10% factor, I think that you should drive it.
 
I agree, drive it. You are checking the fuel pressure with a T in the fuel line and the engine running, right? Don't mean to insult, just checking.
 
Nope!!

I've never used this gauge before.
I disconnected the coil, connected the fuel pressure
gauge straight into the fuel line before the carbs.

Cranked the engine- took a reading.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<,

Another method I used was a "Y" with engine running at
different rpms.

I still have not been able to determine what is the correct
fuel line pressure.

I will try driving the car Friday morning, after rush hour.

thanks all,

d
 
Tinster, it's just what LDL said it was, the AC fuel pump pressure,that is.
At least that is what the Haynes Manual has published. I found it in Chapter 3/ fuel systems.
It is in the specifications for the fuel pump on the first page of that chapter. 1.5#/sq.in.min. to 2.5#/sq.in.max.
 
Dale,

For the final record, page 19.40.19C of the Triumph Factory manual states that "the fuel pump pressure should be 1.5lbs. minimum, to 2.5lbs. maximum PSI."

I just emailed you a pdf file with that page and the proper test procedure to follow.

Please note this additional information on that page:

"Where the fuel pressure is high, it may be reduced by adding additional paper washers between the fuel pump and the cylinder block. Where the pressure is low, overhaul or renew the pump."

Just by chance, there wasn't two gaskets on the pump when you put the unit in that I sent you? One may have been stuck to the block and you might have missed it?
 
OK, it's nearly noon her in RI, so what is the status report for today?
 
Brosky said:
OK, it's nearly noon her in RI, so what is the status report for today?

<span style="color: #990000">Status, you ask??
Dale is hot, humid, sweaty as ditch digger in the Alabama summer
sun PLUS he reeks of gasoline.

How'd you know I'd spend the morning working on the Crypt Car?
:lol: :lol: :wall: :lol: :lol:
</span>

<span style="color: #3333FF">I've always stated I know zip about auto mechanics
and have once again proved this to be true.

Ten days ago the car broke down with BCF member Ian aboard; immediately
after the entire fuel delivery system had been replaced. The engine would
break down over 1500 rpm. So I replaced the entire delivery system again.
Same problem; engine fell apart. Started playing with fuel pressure and
swapping out different pumps. Replaced spark plugs and dizzy rotor;
Engine still fell apart over 1500 rpms.

This morning I swapped out different pumps and PROPERLY tested the
in-line fuel pressures of my three different fuel pumps.

Canada mech pump......2.8 psi at 20 oz fuel pumped per 30 seconds.
Electric pump ........1.5 psi no test flow performed
Brosky mech pump......1.6 psi at 16 oz fuel pumped per 30 seconds

So then I took the car back in time to the day Ian and I broke
down. All new fuel lines, carbs cleaned and back on the manifold, Brosky
refurbished pump back in the car. ..(with one minor exception)****

Test drove the Beast around the Hood. Nice strong 2nd gear pull up small
inclines; 3500 rpms in 1 st and 2nd and 3000 rpms in 3rd. Felt strong and
smooth. Nice 800 rpm idle in the garage, engine shut off immediately.

****My fuel delivery problem seems to have been solved by installing
a new condensor can inside the distributor top. Banjo!!
I've not had the stones to attempt a highway test run. poco a poco
as they say.

So Paul? Once again thanks for your patience, assist and it appears
I best leave well enough alone for now and drive the Crypt Car with
your pump!! :thumbsup:

</span>

<span style="color: #FF6600">Now??? What will be the NEXT breakdown??? </span>

:crazyeyes:
 
Tinster said:
<span style="color: #FF6600">Now??? What will be the NEXT breakdown??? </span>

I am going to say none. I think you are due for another long period of enjoyment. Can you feel all the good vibes we are sending you Dale???

Good luck,
 
In case it's not clear, you really want to check the pressure under the conditions where you see problems. My suggestion is to run a longish hose to your gauge, which you can lead out from under the hood and prop under a windshield wiper where you can see it while taking a drive.
 
TR3driver said:
Run a longish hose to your gauge, which you can lead out from under the hood and prop under a windshield wiper where you can see it while taking a drive.

Tomorrow's headline... "Man, car erupt in giant fireball. Initial suspect, DPO Pedro exhonorated."

:laugh:
 
Randall, are you really sure that was a good idea?

Just kidding Dale, but if you do, be very careful about what the line may touch especially around the manifold and battery.
 
TR3driver said:
In case it's not clear, you really want to check the pressure under the conditions where you see problems. My suggestion is to run a longish hose to your gauge, which you can lead out from under the hood and prop under a windshield wiper where you can see it while taking a drive.

<span style="color: #CC0000">I was thinking the same thing Randall.
But to be a bit safer, I was considering having the Mrs
sit on the front fender while I drove down the highway
and have her voice record the psi readings as I called
out certain rpms and gear speeds. I had the psi test meter
and 1/8" plastic tube securely fastened to the exhaust
headers to lower the vibration effect.

or I could install:Mr Gasket 1561 fuel pressure gauge

Thanks one and all-

I'll try and really test drive the Beast this weekend.

d :thankyousign: :cheers:</span>
 
grin.gif
... the most dangerous part is driving with one eye on the gauge !

I only preach what I practice; I've done it several times. We're only talking a short drive here, not Paris to Dakar.

Since presumably the line is proper 'rubber' fuel line (not just some plastic hose laying around), touching the battery won't hurt anything at all. Even touching the exhaust manifold wouldn't be all that serious; but you'd really have to go out of your way to do that. Laying on the intake manifold is fine.
 
I've done it with my supercharged Miata. And we're talking 85psi, considerably more then what that fuel pump puts out in the TR6. If you're careful when you set things up there won't be any problems.

And as Randall says, the most dangerous part is watching the gauge. :yesnod:
 
Andrew Mace said:
Tinster said:
Brosky said:
****My fuel delivery problem seems to have been solved by installing
a new condensor can inside the distributor top.
...quite possibly proving once again that 95% of fuel problems are electrical. :wink:

Ain't that the truth! When I first got into cars my father taught me that lesson. :thumbsup:
 
Are you kidding? Watching the gauge is easy. It's those other idiots out there hogging up the roads that are the problem.

What I meant was that anytime you have fuel and (potential) sparks/electrical in the same area, anything can happen. How many things have you seen that made you ask; "I wonder how in the world that happened?" Ever see someone install an external fuel/vacuum gauge via rubber lines and close the hood on it, thereby cutting a small hole in the hose? I have.

And Randall, I respect you as a seasoned mechanic, who has performed a lot of different repair/diagnostic routines, both conventionally and unconventionally (I'm sure).

This is no insult to Dale, but just a warning that all of our experiences and methods are not completely understood by those who have yet to accomplish the same.
 
dale I think you got it whiped, now go drive and have some fun, just carry some extra point, cap rotor and condensor with you.

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
dale I think you got it whiped, now go drive and have some fun, just carry some extra point, cap rotor and condensor with you.
Dale's already got 5 sets of each in his tickle trunk; not to mention a whole spare car in pieces in his garage!
 
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