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Sooo close!!!

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Hooper11772

Hooper11772

Senior Member
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Hey all,
Here's the deal i'm down to the final stages of the midget restoration and have hit a roadblock. Chris was kind enough to make me an oil feed to go from my block to the new screw on filter. I installed it last night, filled with oil and attempted to start my car for the first time in likey 20 yrs. I'm getting spark and gas but the darn thing wont run. I know I have spark because I removed all plugs and checked them individually while I had someone turn over the engine. With the plug out I can see I blue flame when I hold the plug slightly away from the block. I can see gas spitting out of the head where the plug goes as well so I know gas is feeding into the chamber. Shouldn't this be all I need for it to kick over? I'm not sure what to check next. Any ideas?
 
Timing? You have to have spark at the right time. :wink:
 
Hi Roger - Glad to see you are so close to lift off! Sounds like your timing is off, maybe even 180 degrees out. It's so easy to install the distributor drive spindle upside down as it is very difficult to see the offset. You may try reinstalling that and see what happens. Hope to hear the engine roar to life soon!
Roy
 
Thanks guys, Thats what I was thinking too since thats all that makes sense. I just talked to Chris on the phone and i'm going to try setting the timing by firing the engine and moving the distributor 10 degrees at as time until it turn over. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for the help!
 
As a quick static check, pull the valve cover and dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed toward the #1 plug wire when the cylinder 1 valves are closed. That way you know you are not 180 out with the distributor.
 
Roger all that above, 180 out.
 
I'll bet you all a beer and steak dinner that it wasn't 180 out when it left my garage. He'll get it going.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]As a quick static check, pull the valve cover and dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed toward the #1 plug wire when the cylinder 1 valves are closed. That way you know you are not 180 out with the distributor.
[/QUOTE]

Now at that point the rotor should be pointing at number one spark plug and that wire should go to number one as well.

That's close enough for it to run.
 
jlaird said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]As a quick static check, pull the valve cover and dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed toward the #1 plug wire when the cylinder 1 valves are closed. That way you know you are not 180 out with the distributor.
Click to expand...

Now at that point the rotor should be pointing at number one spark plug and that wire should go to number one as well.

That's close enough for it to run. [/QUOTE]

and pull the 1st spark plug to ensure it is at TDC with all of the above - don't ask me how I know
 
Hey Guys,
I've done it all including having Chris walk me through best he could with my limited understanding and it's still not running. Was up until 11:00 after work looking at it. I've determined I have spark and the timing appears to be close enough to run on Chris's suggestion I aligned the #1 cylinder with the rotor pointing to #1 wire by removing the valve cover and making sure. I also removed the plug to make sure that it was truly at the top of the cylinder. My spark looks blue but seems kind of weak. Might be the culprit? I have a new coil, wires, plugs, points cap and rotor. Spark is going to all plugs when distributor is turned by hand and grounded. Not sure but i'm ready to break something soon. I'll keep you all updated in the meantime keep the ideas coming if you would. Thanks
 
Are the plugs getting wet?
 
Yeah the plugs are definitely getting gas. As a matter of fact if I pull a plug and then turn the ignition over gas spits out of the head so I know there is plenty there. Chris actually suggested unhooking the fuel pump while I messed around with it. I think I might be getting too much gas and it's flooding out. Is there a way I can measure the spark to see what it is? I feel like althouugh it's present it's not enough to ignite the fuel.
 
With that much fuel there is no way it can ignite it.

I suggest checking the float levels and the float valves.
 
You might try disconnecting the fuel pump, as you said, and put some gas in something like a Windex bottle and spray a bit into the carbs to see if it will fire and run momenteraly. That would prevent flooding it out while you try! As Jack said, too, check the float levels!
 
How's your oil level?
If it's filling up you may be dumping gas, something to be careful about.
(don't ask me how I know)
 
bugimike said:
You might try disconnecting the fuel pump, as you said, and put some gas in something like a Windex bottle and spray a bit into the carbs to see if it will fire and run momenteraly. That would prevent flooding it out while you try! As Jack said, too, check the float levels!
Click to expand...

float levels are worth checking. I had a surplus gas issue which we were able to isolate to the carb by virtue of the fact that I could get it running with starter fluid. I then actually took the carb to a shop where they set it up - with that back it started perfectly.
 
So after a weekend of testing and retesting i'm further behind than I was before. I somehow managed to lose spark to the plugs after a messed around with the points and I couldn't get them reset right to recieve spark again. I took the advise of Chris and some others and disconnected the fuel pump to prevent flooding. I removed the tops of the bowls but am unsure how to "check float levels". What does that mean? Everything seemed in order the bowls were full of gas and the floats and pin on top of them moved freely.
Now i'm back at square one it seems. I need to figure out this spark issue.
So far I tested to make sure the coil was giving spark by removing the coil wire from the distributor cap and grounding it to the block I got plenty of spark.

I also used a test light to wait till the points were open and test the contact plate to the block to insure continuity that looked good however I noticed wen the points were not open it also had continuity and the bulb lit.... Is that right? I got that out of the haynes manual to test the low voltage circuit.

I also checked to insure the cap button moved freely and that the wires had good contact between the side entry cap and the wire.

Are there any other ways tyo check if the points/distributor are working porperly?

I tried both the new and old set of points and still on spark. Thanks for any advise anyone can give i'm ready to throw in the towel and have it towed to be looked at.
 
set the points and make sure the feed wire is not grounded.
 
I feel your pain. here is the link to what I went through to get mine going. It has some helpful stuff on setting static timing (page 2)

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/485727/1 there is also a link to a youtube video on setting static timing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y

I'll leave that part to you to get spark back.

However, if you haven't already

1. make sure you have marked your crank and timing mark at 10 deg BTDC do it now - you will need it when the car is running - which it will be

2. Once you have spark and air, try to start the car with starter fluid or brake fluid - put the "extension tube" on the spray can and insert it as far into the carb as you can and see if it starts on that (lift the piston with your finger). If it does start, the problem is the carb. (BTW - you do have oil in your carb pots right?

3. RE: floats - first tap the bottom of the carb and see if anything changes. Otherwise you will have to take off the carb - take off the bottom and the floats are what maintains the gas level in the reservoir (bottom). Here are the checks

a) remove and make sure it floats (in water)
b) while it is off, check that the valve works - this is what the float opens and closes - it should be obvious. it will close one way and open the other (it will need a blow/suck test)
c) reinstall and make sure the float moves freely
d) the way you measure the float is to lie the carb upside down and measure the distance from the edge of the carb to the top of the float (upside down that is) - your manual should have the distance. I know this sounds obtuse but it will make sense.

good luck - keep posting!

PS is your choke on? I didn't need to use mine
 
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