• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Sometimes it is the easy stuff....

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
So after pulling my hair out to stop the TR^ front end from shaking, and after

1) replacing the roll bar bushings and links
2) tie rod ends
3) shocks

it turns out that my tires simply needed to be balanced.

$40 later and I good. LOL.

(those other items need to be replaced anyway, but I'm still feeling a bit sheepish)
 
You remind me of when I had a poor running motor. I completely rebuilt the carbs, changed wires, plugs, rotor, points, cap, re-set the valves and timing with no improvement. Finally changed the coil which Geo thought might be sending too much spark through the points and of course, that was the culprit. I waited far too long to post my issue.
 
HUH?

ignition is supplied by twelve volts going from one side of the coil, through the primary windings of the coil, out of the coil and through the pigtail to the points, condensor and grounding in the distributor body. When the points open the "field"(primary winding coil inside the coil) collapses and triggers the secondary coil, which fires through the secondary terminal of the coil, out the distributor wire, into the center terminal of the distributor cap, onto the rotor where it is directed to whichever button on the cap it is pointed at and out through the plug wire to the plug.

No way a coil sends electricity back through the points. Common for early British coils to open circuit, especially when they warmed up. What was burning your points up was failure or incorrect resistance of the condensor(oh, what fun it was to measure fareds)

I will put my two cents in whenever I can, not trying to attack anyone, so please do NOT take it as such.

Trying to inform people of the way things work(or in LBC's case, supposed to work) so that the future generations are not "trained" improperly. People learning ignition systems today do NOT learn about point setups, so if they hear improper stuff as "the bible" they may believe it.
 
RonMacPherson said:
ignition is supplied by twelve volts going from one side of the coil, through the primary windings of the coil, out of the coil and through the pigtail to the points, condensor and grounding in the distributor body.

In the same vein as your post, volts don't go anywhere. Voltage or EMF is the force. Current flows through the circuit.

I used to tell my students that if anyone said that volts flow, I would whomp him up side the hay-id. (I'm from West Virginia, where head has two syllables.)

I was kidding, of course, but it made them remember that volts don't flow, current flows.

Your post is spot-on. The points are in the primary circuit.
 
From what I understood about my old coil, it was sending too much current to the points and nearly welding them closed but they would break open late causing the late fire at the plug. I changed the coil and the problem went away. It had to do with the resistance within the coil not being enough. I am an extreme novice so others could better explain this. Maybe Geo could explain better.
 
I'm betting the coil you HAD was not internally ballasted. Adequate Farads. Or lack thereof. A condensor issue.
 
Back
Top