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Spitfire Some Spitfire Questions.

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Gafirema

Gafirema

Senior Member
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Well, I guess I'll ask for the heck of it. These aren't related to my emissions thread so I thought I would make a thread asking about these things I'm curious about, if that's alright. So a few questions if I may.

#1: When I accelerate and the engine is not over about 2,000RPM and I'm traveling at lower speeds, usually when I'm just starting off the line, I can hear a strange rattling/knocking sound coming from the front, it almost sounds like the right front of the car but definitely from the front. It doesn't always make it and doesn't seem to effect the performance at all. It doesn't sound serious, it's just a slight knocking. What could this be?

#2: What's the best way to clean and degrease the engine bay, or should I leave it alone? Once I put a new gasket in I want to clean it out nice and tidy if possible.

#3: The back wheels sound as though they are wooden once I get up above about 25mph. I think it's the shocks though, because when I go over speed bumps the front feels just fine, quite good actually, but the rear feels like there is no give whatsoever. Are these hard to replace? I think I've found some cheap sets online for less than $100.

#4: The switch on the left, that controls the horn, turn signals and brights seems to be loose. I keep flashing my brights at people accidentally when I put the turn signals on. Is there a way I could tighten it, or do I need to replace that part? If so, how hard would it be to replace?

#5: What's the cheapest, California Emissions legal engine that could be swapped into one? How much would that cost me? I'm just curious about engine swapping, not even sure quite what to ask here.

#6: The seats are in good condition but on the drivers side the fabric has kind of separated from the cushion a bit where the back and bottom meet up. I have to kind of tuck it in to keep it looking strait and tidy. What would be the best way to fix this? I was thinking maybe a hot glue gun from a craft store or super glue or something?

The car in question is a 1980 Spitfire 1500 MKIV.

I think that's all for now, I'm a new spitfire owner so trying to figure things out. Thank you kindly for any help.
 
1. My guess is the muffler is hitting the frame.

2. First start with a scraper and get the big, thick stuff off. Then you can use all kinds of methods after that.

3. Easy to replace. The question is do you maybe have a set of spax shocks that are set very firm.

4. I would pull cover off first and see if the screws holding it are loose. After that then yes I don't know of a way to fix that switch.

5. Can't answer that one.

6. I don't have an answer on that one either.

All my answers are or could be wrong and I am sure the rest of the forum has ideas and will ask you more questions to help with each question.
 
#5 - you can put just about anything in provided it is more clean than what you take out AND has all the controls that it would have had in the donor.

For example - a 1995 Miata donor would need all the emissions controls/ECU/cat etc...

It will have to pass the SMOG requirements for that year. You'll have to get it inspected by a referee and secure the sticker for it.
 
To clarify, if you install a 1995 Miata engine the car will need to have all of the emissions equipment that came on a 95 Miata. It would also need to pass emissions for a 1995 car. You cannot swap an engine from a car older than your car (1980). You not allowed drop the Columbo V12 from your 70 Daytona in there and call it good.

However if the car was to be registered in an area of California that doesn't require emissions testing, you are free to do as you please.
 
cheseroo said:
However if the car was to be registered in an area of California that doesn't require emissions testing, you are free to do as you please.
Click to expand...
Well, more accurately, you aren't likely to get caught violating federal law. Emissions tampering remains a crime, even without the biannual inspection.
 

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#3 The Previous owner may have also installed air shocks in it to lift the rear end back to a more correct height when the rear spring sags. Its a band aid fix often used on Spits and the air pressure could be high enough in them to make them VERY stiff.
 
#1. check your front suspension/wheel bearings for wear or damage.

#2. check for steam clean services in your area. I started paying the $50-100 bucks to have it done a couple cars back. It's money very well spent!

#3. in addition to other comments, check on the age of the tires and see if there are flatspots. It may not be a bad idea to put fresh tires on the car.

#4. the innards of the switch may be worn out. Proceed carefully with it.

#5. the first question I'd ask here is why? We drive a stock 4speed one here and the only complaint is the lack of a highway gear. I'd recommend looking into transmission swaps as an alternative.

#6. I have the same problem with my TR8 seat. The glue in the back that holds the seat cover in place has come loose. You can remove the seat, flip it upside down and reglue it. You may want to look closely at the condition of the seat cushion, it may need replacement.

Jody
 
Re # 4. There's a tiny spring that's supposed to keep that from happening. I've rebult several of those swtiches. as long as the white metal parts aren't broken, it's very rebuildable.

I gotta dollar that the spirng is missing. Take the escut.. estchu... covers off, two screws for the switch,loosen the wiring covers underneath and you should be able to get enough slack to pull the switch out and see what's going on. Go slow and easy, you have to pull on the connections to get any slack and there's hardly enough room as it is.

MAKE SURE YOU'VE DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY, or you'll be changing fuses too.
 
1ST QUESTION ONLY :whistle: for me...I'd suggest the steering rack,Use
your Haynes or Bently shop manual for reference.,Their may be the rubber boots are cracked or shot which will play havoc & creat lots of noises.After 30+years of service it probably is shot.
Ken&Whitelightning
 
Just a thought.
If it was me, I'd just make a list of what needed to be done....and do nothing right now.

Use your time, energy and finances to get it up to SMOG standards and get it passed, titled, and licensed, THEN, spen your time, energy and finances on the listed items.

Dave
 
Yeah, of course the smog issues are my main and foremost concern. I just thought I'd discuss the other issues here as well while I'm at it. The rattling almost sounds like something is loose... It's strange. If I hit a bump in the road you can hear it rattle around even more. It really sounds like something is loose.

As far as the tires, they are brand new, or close to it.

The steam cleaning service sounds like a really cool idea, I just worry if it would hurt any of the electronics?

I don't think I'm going to worry about an engine swap right now either.

Thank you all for your replies and help :smile:
 
Hmmm, about the rattling... I noticed it gets worse when I put the car in reverse and slowly back up, if I rev the RPM's a bit higher it gets better but when the RPM's drop and I'm in reverse it's quite a bit worse and even more so if I turn in reverse.

Any ideas?
 
Rear wheel bearings. Get a hub puller first.
 
hilsideser said:
Rear wheel bearings. Get a hub puller first.
Click to expand...

I see, how hard are those to replace and how much does it cost to replace them? Also, why does the rattling sound like it's coming from the front? Although... The rear wheels ARE quite loud when I get up to speed. They sound wooden.
 
Sorry to bump this, but I'm still trying to figure out where that rattling comes from. It's rather odd.

It seems to be loudest and clanky at low RPM's but smooths out at higher RPM's. It also seems to be clanky and loud in reverse and a bit more so in reverse. I don't feel anything wrong when I drive the car, the car feels, shifts and drives smoothly aside from needing some new rear shocks that is. It's so strange...
 
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