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So the rod bearings are coming out.....

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I have ordered new tri-metal rod bearings for my car and have two sets out already. Irregular wear, one is scored (but not the crank). Any way to blow out the oil journals or holes in the crank shaft. The oil holes are visible with the bearings out. Can I put a blast of compressed air in these holes and check for debris? I am doing this from the bottom, with the engine still in the car.
 
I don't see why not. You would have to secure a clean lint free rag in position to collect any debris that would blow out. You'd hate to see a chard of metal floating around in you sump.
 
If you do that, Bill, I'd shoot some kind of solvent in there first to dry up the oil. Then any of the babbit that may have ended up in there would be loose and not stuck in oil.
I just replaced all my bearings that way after 100k. I did them one at a time. But when I got to the mains, I had to loosen all the bearing caps (not remove) so I could manipulate the crank just enough to slide the upper main bearings into place, Especially the front one.
 
You know, Bill, something is bothering me about this. If it was wear in the bearing that caused the rod to knock, what caused the bearing to wear? Lack of lubrication or oil pressure? I doubt that. Then what? The crank, the rods?.
Poor quality bearings? Jeez, I hope that's all it was.
Oh yeah, I see where you weren't planning on repacing the Mains, but that was a tip anyway.
 
Bill, you live way to Close to Crypty. Those seasonal winds are blowing his buju on your car.
 
LOL :lol:
 
poolboy said:
You know, Bill, something is bothering me about this. If it was wear in the bearing that caused the rod to knock, what caused the bearing to wear? Lack of lubrication or oil pressure? I doubt that. Then what? The crank, the rods?.
Poor quality bearings? Jeez, I hope that's all it was.
Oh yeah, I see where you weren't planning on repacing the Mains, but that was a tip anyway.
Click to expand...

Ken, I understand your concern. Trust me, I have the same. I removed the front rod bearing last night and noticed that it had a nice score line right in the middle, all the way around. The good news is the crank surface itself only showed a mar in this area. Because the bearing surface is softer than the crank surface, whatever was in there cut the bearing and not the crank. I suppose this is good news. Interestingly, the rear bearing bled oil out the oil hole and the front one didn't (those are the only 2 I have removed before I shut it down for the night). Thus the question, can I run anything like compressed air into the hole, perhaps from the back hole, leaving the other bearings in place, and see if anything (like oil) comes out of the front rod bearing surface hole. Make sense? Did to me. I really want to get this thing back on the road to go to Natchez in late Sept. Will you be there?

Too, I did Plastigauge 2 of the crank bearings a few months ago and they were very smooth and in spec. Hoping against hope they are all good enough for a few more thousand miles. Also, the machine shop that did my short block originally swore to me they used Vandervell (sp?) when they built my block. Not so! Looks like these were made in who-knows-where. May they rest in Hades. Because the rod bearing take a lot more stress than the crank bearings, I am hoping Mother Luck is with me on this one.
 
Bill:
I'm kinda coming in on the end of this thread, but if I understand correctly, you think a noise is a rod bearing knocking.
If a rod bearing is knocking the rod itself needs to be resized or replaced, as the beating back and forth will cause the big end of the rod to become oval.
Also scratchs and inbeded items are often due to dirty assembly practices.
The number one journal is the last to receive oil. Make sure that oil level is ok, and use a thick oil to ensure complete distribution, especially in the heat of South La.
If you are correct about a lack of lubrication, you may have problems with the #1 main and the front cam bearing as well!
I hope not: Maybe a timing chain problem?
I sure hope to meet you in Vidalia, Sept 27th.
Emmett
 
DNK said:
Bill, you live way to Close to Crypty. Those seasonal winds are blowing his buju on your car.
Click to expand...

<span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="color: #000099">Bill !!

Could you kindly refrain from posting all these engine issues??

Crypty gives me enough problems without you giving him additional

ideas!! Ideas that cannot be repaired here on the island.

d</span> </span>
 
To update, I have ordered new crank bearings as well. They are all being changed.

Sorry, Dale.
 
Something else to look at, Bill. That score line around the bearing, while not desireable, has only reduced the bearing surface a small amount. The lead alloy coating is a better indicator of wear. If you see much of the copper layer showing in blotches or patches then you are getting to a point where the clearences may cause the rod knock. In other words, a small shallow streak in the babbit around the bearing wouldn't cause a rod to start knocking.
You may however, run into one that has worn to that point as you go along.
If you find one like that then you'll be faced with the decision of what came first, the chicken or the egg, the bearing or the rod.
What ever you find, it'll sure be good to finally know what you've been hearing.
In the back of my mind is a wrist pin.
I think as you remove the rod bearing caps, I'd grab hold of each connecting rod and see if you can feel any front to back movement in it, while the piston is tight in the cylinder.
 
All Vandervel bearings are not created equal. Its my understanding that the good tri-metal ones are no longer being manufactured. Any VPII bearings running around are NOS. A lot of people will sell you Vandervel bearings indicating they are the best quality. They are simply bearings made by Glacier and put in the Vandervel box. Apparently they are owned by the same company, so this is kosher.

I put the King tri-metal bearings in the second Spitfire. I hope they are good.

I agree that a knocking bearing would likely have worn through the top bearing surface on one side exposing the copper underneath.

I'm no expert and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
 
The kings if my fuzzy memory is any good today are fine.
 
<span style="color: #660000">Well, looky here Bill !!
You kindly offered to sell me your nice TR6-
since my Pedro-ized Tr6 was such a nightmare
and costing me so much $$$ in repairs..

Can you even imagine what my costs might be today
having to ship your engine back and forth to
the mainland for constant, $$$$ parts and labor
repairs.

I feel bad for you, I feel bad for me.

d :crazyeyes:</span>
 
But Dale, mine <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> be fixed!



man, that was low, huh.
 
TR6BILL said:
But Dale, mine <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> be fixed!
man, that was low, huh.
Click to expand...

<span style="font-size: 14pt"> <span style="color: #660000">rah-ther low indeed!

may a thousand camels fart in your bathroom
while you are shaving !!</span> </span>
 
Bill,
Was the plastigage exactly the same on all journals? Can you put hands on a good micrometer? How audible was the knock?
 
TRTEL said:
Bill,
Was the plastigage exactly the same on all journals? Can you put hands on a good micrometer? How audible was the knock?
Click to expand...

Yes, yes (Starrett) and noticeable.

We pulled the plug wire from each spark plug in sequence, watched for a spark jump, and the noise didn't go away, so we assumed that the wrist pins were not the culprits.
 
Bill, I just wanted to take this opportunity to wish you and the Family well. With the approach of Hurricane Gustav, it doesn't look good for Cajun Country, if the tract continues as forecast.
Good luck, pb.
 
Same thoughts, here, and same for you poolboy in Mississippi. The Gulf does not need to see another one like Katrina for a long time.

And what happened to Bill's id, its showing him as unregistered?

Randy
 
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