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So, I decided to give the TR an oil change........

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TR6Stuart

TR6Stuart

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I got out the owners manual, turned to the relevant section and read 'Remove oil filter canister' (this was along side a photograph showing a guy in a business suit with meticulously clean hands).
My question is simple, How?
There's no way this outer canister as ever been outside the engine compartment.
I did manage to fit a new filter and 'O' ring seal. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
The sealing of the canister was relatively straight forward, there wasn't a problem there. I had to replace the new filter cartridge with the canister in the car.
There's also a hole in the inner wing to access the canister bolt.
The question is, how do you get the canister out of the engine compartment? You can't lift it upwards because of the steering column, or exit the thing downwards.
 
Can't you just take the seal off of wherever it is on the engine, and lay it like it's supposed to be in the canister, and then put them on together?
 
The 'O' ring fits into a groove in the engine block, there's nothing difficult positioning this. It's the fact that I can't get the canister out of the engine compartment and have to replace the filter with it inside the car.
 
That's why so many of us have switched over to the aftermarket oil filter. Changing filters is truly a breeze.

Bill
 
Not seen these after market filter but intend to get one.
The question still remains 'How do I get it out of the car?'
 
I recently replaced my canister type oil filter with a spin on adapter. It really wasn't that hard. I removed the bolts holding the slave clutch and moved it out the way and I was then able to get the canister out.
 
I had to detach the clutch slave cylinder to remove the canister. I then promptly replaced it with a spin on filter adaptor. An adde benefit is that the filter does not go empty when the engine is shut-off. I pre-fill my filter before installing-can't do that with the canister filter.
 
What hole in the wheel well? The only access I can see is to get a socket through to tighten the canister bolt.
Wimpy or not I'm off to buy one of those spin-on oil filter adaptors.
 
Go with the spin on, it's the best $60 you'll spend, spring for the oil cooler if you will be driving hard, but most people won't need to go that route. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Go with the spin on, it's the best $60 you'll spend

[/ QUOTE ]
There is also a very good technical reason to ditch the canister for a spin-on . . . it prevents oil drain back to the sump if a filter with a good anti-drain back valve (ADBV) such as a WIX is used. It can thus be argued that the spin-on minimizes engine wear due to "dry" starts.
 
[ QUOTE ]
In keeping with the proper elements of an original restoration, it seems to me that the cannister is essential.

[/ QUOTE ]
Absolutely, the 'French Blue' canister would be the only solution for the enthusiast obsessed with authenicity. Any problems with the spin-on install typically stem from (1) not removing all of the old gaskets from the block and/or (2) improper selection and installation of the gaskets supplied with the Mocal spin-on kit. As far as which spin-on filters work best, there are several readily available choices: WIX 51516, Motorcraft FL-400S, Purolator PER195, Purolator PureOne PL20195, and any Car Quest 'Super Blue' or NAPA 'Gold' equivalents to these.
 
I know of three answers to your problem - Long term: spin on adapter; crazy for original: pull off the clutch slave cylinder (I did this ONCE); don't care for exact original, but hate modern: get your hands on a "short" canister from a 2000 saloon, it has a similar engine displacement and the canister is just small enough to slip out of the engine compartment.
 
Re: So, I decided to give the TR an oil change....

I really prefer originality on my TRs but did go with the spin-ons just because it is so much neater and quicker. Using a filter that approximates the size of the old canister and painting them a similar color makes it less offensive to the eye. I paint a batch of 6 or so and let them dry for several months so they can handle any fluids that get on them.

I do not have a TR6 but ISTR that some '6 owners rotate the filter housing... does that sound right? Can't remember if that is to make it easier to change the filter or easier to pre-fill the filter.
 
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