Smelling like fuel and oil after a quick drive?

[57_BN4]

One thing I found with my Ford is that after fitting a PCV valve it has lost the old car smell that gets into clothes. The difference is that the Ford engine used a "road draft tube" which constantly leaked fumes by design whereas the Healey engine should be completely sealed apart from the air cleaner and rear crank 'seal'. Even a tiny amount of crankcase fume is enough to leave its mark.

I wonder if anyone else has experienced a change in smell after fitting a PCV valve?

Andy.

 

[DaveS]

I have a 100-6, but I think that the systems are the same. Are your heater and fresh air tubes in your engine compartment attached and in good order. If the fresh air vent has a hole or is disconnected, it will be pushing air right from the engine compartment right to the passager area even if you have it shut off.

 

[gra]

I don't know, I have owned a bunch of old LBCs, and my wife thought I smelled like "gas and oil" after a drive in any of them, some wives have pretty sensitive noses, bless their hearts.

The cars, even when set to spec and not leaking, are not sealed up (gas tank, carbs) like modern cars, nor is are the emmissions cleaned up.

That being said, I agree that the things to look for are gas leaks, exhaust leaks, too rich a mixture, as any of these will add to the smell, of course I find the smell mildy intoxicating and highly addictive.....

<span style="font-style: italic">I agree - multiple cars over the years with the same issues but need to be sure about leaks.</span>

 

[BrandonBJ8]

I have a 100-6, but I think that the systems are the same. Are your heater and fresh air tubes in your engine compartment attached and in good order. If the fresh air vent has a hole or is disconnected, it will be pushing air right from the engine compartment right to the passager area even if you have it shut off.

That's a good point Dave. I know the hoses aren't in the best shape. I wouldn't be surprised if there are some decent sized holes in the heater/fresh air hoses that are forcing air from directly under the hood into the cabin. I'll have to check that out and get some duct tape or some other short-term fix to plug the holes.

 

[drambuie]

Hello,
With all things said from other members taken into account, Do you have any holes in your floor boards or toe boards? Also maybe your under dash air vents maybe letting in the motor oders you discribe! Just a thought. Michael.

 

[Superwrench]

At least the wife won't be able to smell that cigar and couple of pints you had at the pub !

 

[BrandonBJ8]

So I've found 3 issues that could be causing the smell.

1. Many of the grommets are either worn out or missing leaving a few holes in the firewall where wires/cables connect. <span style="font-weight: bold">What is the easiest way to plug these?
</span>
2. There is a small hole in the fresh are intake hose near the carbs. <span style="font-weight: bold">How can I patch that hole?</span>

3. The exhaust has a slight leak where the downpipes connect to the mid-mufflers. This is actually recent as a few weeks ago I had to replace the downpipes since they were damaged and I've noticed a bit more noise from there since. I had a pretty tough time getting the downpipes in and tightened while doing this.<span style="font-weight: bold"> Now that everything is installed and bolted tight, is there a simple way to try and eliminate this leak? </span>I'd really like to avoid unbolting the entire exhaust system to fix this leak as it took me a full weekend (and lots of bloody knuckles) to install it last time.

Thanks!

 

[shorn]

1. I found Lowe's carried some grommets that filled the holes although different from original.
2. Moss sells the air duck hoses 456-120 and 456-130 (the 456-130being the fresh air to car interior). However, as I remember it is difficult to install because access is limited.
3. Perhaps just retightening the clamps mighthelp. That fixed a leak that I had.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

1) You can replace the grommets without removing cables and hoses. Just make a clean cut and work the new grommet into place; generally, it's best to put the cut at the top. If you want, use some silicone to seal any gaps.

2) Duct tape (of course!).

3) This is a bear. Part of the problem is that either, or both the flange on the manifold and/or the flange on the downpipe may not be perfectly flat. Not much you can do on the manifold in situ, but you can carefully flatfile the downpipe flanges (even better if you can mill them). Then, I put high-temp 'copper' silicone on the gaskets and torque the stud nuts carefully (you can snap a stud off and then you're in for extra fun). I gave up on the brass nuts, even new ones. Instead, I put antiseize on the studs and double-nut with regular steel nuts. I use a 3/8" ratchet with a couple long extensions and a 1/2" deep socket to get at the nuts.

You should be able to get the downpipes off in less than a weekend. Just undo the front brackets on the front exhaust and lower it as much as possible, remove the manifold stud nuts and you should be able to work the downpipes off--the flexpipes give you some wiggle room (remove the front pipe last and replace it first). I can have mine off in less than an hour. Put some antiseize on the end of the downpipes in case you get to repeat this exercise in the future.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Looks like I misread the original post--I see the leak is at the downpipe<->muffler connection. The high-temp silicone I mentioned should seal up a small leak. The other issue--for which I don't have a definitive answer--is where to place the clamps. There are two slits on either side of the muffler entrance pipe; presumably these are to allow cinching-up the outer pipes on the inner. You can put the clamps towards the end of the slits to allow for better clamping, or towards the other end to better cover up these 'intentional leaks.' I usually waffle and put the clamps in the middle; hoping the sealant will fill any holes.