TR2/3/3A small spring pan question

[sp53]

I cannot see a picture of there being a washer with the castle nut that goes on the bottom of the spring pan. I do have and remember there being a special washer on top of the bolt, but nothing underneath. It looks like it could sure use one to make the carter key set in the castle nut more effectively, but I do not remember there being one. Sure I can put one on, but I like originality for the engineering purity. Does anyone remember that part of the spring pan installation?

 

[charleyf]

Yes there have been on several original units that I have taken apart. In particular, the washer is not very wide. However I do not remember a washer on the head of the bolt. Just the one on the bottom. You likely know that late in the production the bolt with cotter key was replaced with a nylock nut. I have to say taking off the cotter keys is a real pain compared to the nylock.
Charley

 

[CJD]

Steve, we must be mirroring each other lately. I just started organizing and sand blasting the front suspension. There are narrow flat washers under the nuts where they contact the pan. They are not lock washers, just flat, narrow ground washers.

 

[TR3driver]

Although the description says "washer, spring", the part number in the SPC is for a plain washer, WP0020. The description says "under nut". Putting the washer under the nut also makes a lot more sense to me, especially on the stud

BTW, Amendment 3 mentions the change to Nylocs, but doesn't give a specific change point. Personally, I've had too many Nylocs that loosened up over time; I prefer cotter pins. A little smear of anti-seize will make sure they come out easily next time.

PS, WP0020 is only 5/8" od, so quite a bit smaller than even SAE standard washers (which are smaller than hardware store washers). However, I just noticed that MMC has some "mil spec" washers listed that are very close to 5/8" od (.063"). I'll have to pick up a box, next time I'm over there.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#95229a480/=t8l24b

 

[CJD]

The cars I work on are such basket cases that I have learned I can tap a 1/2" drive deep socket onto the nut and sheer the cotter key right off with no real effort. On most of my junk I cannot even see the nuts, so I just hammer over where I think they are and twist right off. What's left of the cotter keys falls right out when I go to clean them.

 

[TR3driver]

The cars I work on are such basket cases that I have learned I can tap a 1/2" drive deep socket onto the nut and sheer the cotter key right off with no real effort. On most of my junk I cannot even see the nuts, so I just hammer over where I think they are and twist right off. What's left of the cotter keys falls right out when I go to clean them.

I agree, except there isn't room for a deep socket between the frame & that stud. I use a box end wrench there. Usually a 12 point does the trick, but I also have a set of 6 point for when it seems likely the 12 will slip.