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slow turning

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Sopwith_Camel

Sopwith_Camel

Jedi Knight
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ok its not the battiry
bought a new one and toped it upover night.

the engine turns very slowly
I am getting spark

starter motor?
ground?

had the issue at motorrama charge the bat on a industral charger
and drove home got 4 more starts and now its been dead all week.

https://www.fosna-folket.no/samferdsel/article3106581.ece
snowed on the way down and my points went.

steve
 
ground.

you should be able to ground the engine with a temporary ground and use a jumper cable directly on the starter - this will eliminate the solenoid circuit (or implicate it) but sounds like a bad ground.
 
It can be a bad ground and would be the first thing to look at. JP's method is what I have used previously.

Other possibilities include damaged contacts in the solenoid that limit current flow, and a starter motor that may need internal cleaning and/or rebuild. Save those for last and focus on the easily accessible and inexpensive items first.
 
well Ive tryed jumping to the stater moter and same result
I had the block directly to the neg pole and then went from the hot down to the starter

oh well just need to find a starter motor some where close by.
steve
 
You may just need new brushes. They are not terribly difficult to rebuild and the brushes are pretty cheap. You should probably look at the commutator first to make sure it's not badly worn.
 
If you connect the battery directly to the starter as you described, and you're sure that the battery is OK and well charged, it can't be much except the starter. As Gerard says, check the brushes. Worst case, starters aren't very expensive.
 
My problem up here is not expence but how long it takes to ship in.
I pulled the starter yesterday and it worked fine in isolation
It was covered in oil so maybe it waswnt getting grounded

I'll try popping In today now that it's stopped raining

do you think i could get the brushs local? its a small farming town there must be some sort of shop but its a metric country ...but tires are still in inches...weird

cheery
Steve
 
Well put the cleaned up starter back in
No change

My big worry is the last Time I drove it I burst a coolant hose
But patched it long enough to get home with out over heating

Worryed steve
 
The other issue with the Lucas starters is the the post where you attach the cable can get twisted about if you don't use two wrenches to prevent the post itself from twisting when loosening the nut. Enough times on and off can weaken or even break the connection. What you describe does sound like bad brushes, but it could potentially be a weak connection from that post to the windings. That is not so easily fixed as I recall, but take care when R&Ring it so as not to make matters worse. If I were you, I'd at least inspect the brushes, armature and see if there is any loose feel in that post connection.

You should have an inspection cover, held by one clamping screw to give you a look at the brushes and armature. When the brushes (even one) gets short, I will not be making good enough contact with the armature to give you the needed torque. Same goes if you see ruts in the armature. This is pretty easy access once you have the starter out.
 
ok I pulled the plugs out and then cranked the engine
and it spun the engine
so yes its not devloping enough torque
Im just worry with this problem poping up after the over heating issue
a buddy is hopping by with a starter on saterday
this week is so sunny its killing me

steve
 
Had the same thing happen to me last weekend. Thought it was the battery, bad ground, solenoid, starter, etc. But nope! It turned out to be a bad connection between the battery cable and the battery cable clamp. Took the clamp apart, cleaned it real good, put it back together, hooked it back up--voila! Perfect.

The way I found it was by using a VOM set on 12 volts and measuring between one battery post and the opposite cable, just beyond the clamp. Voltage dropped from 12 volts to 1 volt--big drop. Voltage was fine to the clamp itself.

Hoep yours is this simple!
 
Actually, that's a really good idea. You measure the voltage at the battery clamp when you run the starter, then the solenoid connection, and so on down to the starter, and see where you are losing voltage. That's where the problem is.

Of course, if you get to the starter and you haven't found a point where there is a large drop in voltage, then the problem is likely to be the starter itself.
 
ok Ill give that a look after work

I should check all the contacts too we had to take a dusty dirt road two weeks ago and there is a fine dust every where

steve
 
nope new starter I think i have water in the cylenders with any luck its only the head gasket
steve
 
ok well I have re done the head and it is now lead free
got it back on
and the orginal problem of slow turning it just dosnt have the umph to turn the engine
could it just be the wires need to be replaced from the bat to the starter?

steve
 
Are the battery terminals good and clean? Try subsituting another battery. If that doesn't work bypass the wiring with a jumper cable.


Kurt.
 
sup_wit_camel said:
ok well I have re done the head and it is now lead free
got it back on
and the orginal problem of slow turning it just dosnt have the umph to turn the engine
could it just be the wires need to be replaced from the bat to the starter?

steve
Click to expand...

yes, but it is more likely a bad ground or a weak battery or solenoid. Thinking back over my time on these boards those three above are almost always more likely than the wiring itself.
 
well I have a new battery that was first.
I think I will order the cylenoid and ground strap
steve
 
ok i did the wires down to the starter
the engine is now turning fast enough to start
so now its on to the basic issue of gass and fuel

steve
 
ok toast i am getting white smoke out the tail pipe
looks like anougther head gasket
any other ideas
sigh
steve
 
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