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Slow clutch

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tntriumph59

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Hey guys!

Finally got the 59 tr3a up and running yesterday. Once I got everything tuned in we took it for a drive. The clutch is very hard to press to the floor and when pressed to the floor it takes some time to return to its normal position. This is causing some trouble with getting the car in and out of gear. It looks like the hose from the slave cylinder is pretty shot. My plan is to drain the fluid, replace the hose, and bleed the system.

Do you guys think this will take care of the problem, or does this sound like a slave cylinder issue?

I appreciate your guys help.

Andrew
 
Do you have the return spring on there (goes from the operating arm to the slave bracket)?

Fig6Clutchslavecylinderlinkage.jpg


Photo credit: stolen from Randall
 
I would certainly replace the hose first, as there is clearly some restriction somewhere and that is the most likely place IMO. Also look along the line from slave to master for any kinks, especially right where it comes off the MC.

BTW, that is not my photo, it was copied from the TR4 workshop manual (IIRC). All I did was scan it and tweak up the scan a bit. It does show the correct slave setup for TR3/A/B with front disc brakes (which is hard to find in the TR3 literature).
 
Sounds like hose to me. Take it off, wash it and try to blow through it. Its probably swelled up on the inside. I just did that on a A/H 100. Hose bad, replaced it and it works good.

Marv
 
While we're looking a picture: The picture Randall shows of the cylinder mounting bracket mounted to the back side of the tranny flange. I've found that that flange has a slight surface angle causing the bracket to slant forward. This causes the cylinder rod to come out of the cylinder at an angle reducing the force against the clutch actuator arm. I usually mount the bracket on the front side where the face is "true". Patrick
 
While you have the tube out I would take the slave cylinder apart, clean it out make sure its not pitted, the Master is a little more difficult to take apart but might be worth invistagating, I purchase a stainless steel braided hose from someone, I never liked the plastic hose.

good luck

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
I never liked the plastic hose.
Click to expand...

You should get a TR3A then, they never had plastic hose.
 
What do you guys recommend for replacement fluid? Can I pick something up at the local auto parts store that will work? Will a DOT 3 brake fluid work? Sorry for all the questions.
 
Personally, I'm a big fan of DOT 5 Silicone, but it's hard to find at the local store. I mail order mine from TRF. Lasts forever (if you don't let water get into it) and won't eat paint after the inevitable leak or corrode the brake system from the inside out.

Used to be that ordinary DOT 3 would attack the Girling seals, but that problem seems to have gone away a long time ago. You're probably safe.

Here's a shot of what the clutch slave on TS13571L looked like, after being "put away wet" with DOT 3/4 for 30+ years.

DSCF0005_reduced.jpg
 
I am having a similar problem with my TR6. When I let the clutch out it seems to bind and will not engage smoothly. I have the car on jacks now while I am working on the brakes so I will check how the slave cylinder is mounted.

If this looks familiar it is because I posted it by mistake on another thread.

Oh well
 
I pulled the slave off today and plan to rebuild it. When I took the "braided" hose off barley any hydraulic fluid came out. I also took off the braided line and a lot of fluid came out of the hard line. I tried blowing through the braided line with very little luck. I looks like a rebuild kit and new hoses are on their way. Also the spring and anchor plate were MIA so those will be replaced. Hopefully this will fix my issues and we can get the TR back on the road.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Do you have the return spring on there (goes from the operating arm to the slave bracket)?

Fig6Clutchslavecylinderlinkage.jpg


Photo credit: stolen from Randall
Click to expand...

Also in the above photo it shows a grease fitting. My TR only has one fitting on the opposite side. Is this correct?
 
No, there would have been a zerk on each end of the operating rod. Possibly not critical as I seem to recall they were eventually eliminated.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Possibly not critical as I seem to recall they were eventually eliminated.
Click to expand...
At the risk of sounding like a certain ex-president, it depends on your definition of "critical". The shaft and bushing will definitely wear quicker without an occasional dose of fresh grease. But, depending on how much you plan to drive the car, that may not be an issue.

The later cars without the zerk also had steel bushings rather than brass (and they still wear out quicker).

PS, On the Stag there wasn't room to add the grease zerk on the end of the shaft, so I added it through the housing instead. Of course that meant I had to drill the bushing to allow the grease to pass (and I'll have to do that again if I ever replace the bushing again)

ClutchshaftgreasenippleonStag.jpg
 
Well it looks like I will be ordering two new grease fittings. The one on the other side seems clogged. When I get to grease it today it seemed like it wouldn't take much grease.
 
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