TR2/3/3A Sloppy SU linkage and DIY bellcrank repair?

[karls59tr]

Having read the thread on the common high idle problem resulting in having to kick down the accelerator pedal in order to lower the idle I decides to inspect the linkage and do some of the fixes that people recommended. I noticed that there was a lot of slop in the V shaped bell crank hole(#85 in Moss diagram) where the bell crank pivot(NLA) goes. Rather than pay the $35 for a new bell
crank I wondered if it would be possible to fill the hole with "JB Weld" and redrill the hole to fit the pivot pin better? Anyone done this?

 

[TR4nut]

I haven't done it but I think you'd be better off if you can find someone to weld the hole up a bit for you and redrill - JB Weld is great but I don't think it will hold up with moving parts.

 

[charleyf]

Karl,
+1 with Randy. I would guess JB Weld would last a few months of driving and then you are back to where you were.
Charley

 

[TomMull]

I've not got much faith in JBWeld either but it might hold up long enough to tell if this is really the problem. Somebody might have a decent bell crank if it is. I don't think much of the linkage was ever very tight.
Tom

 

[DavidApp]

One alternative is the Ratco mod.to the linkage.

David

https://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/throttle-linkage-kit

 

[Rhodyspit75]

Why not make a new one. Here's a picture of the setup I made for my HS2's. all I used was a hacksaw a file a drill and a vise.

 

[DavidApp]

Alternately you could add some braze to the hole then ream it out to size.

David