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T-Series Sloooooowwwww leak in Clutch hydraulics

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Rats.

...well, as one fox says to the other about sprinting thru the henhouse: "Sometimes chicken, sometimes feathers."
 
lol

I figure if another "good" used one doesn't pop up before the last of the new ones falls off, I'll bite the bullet for the new one.
 
New is fine, but don't buy "NOS". A 40-year-old gauge is going to need to be rebuilt anyway so there's no reason to pay for NOS.

If you can't find one, I think I have a dual gauge around here somewhere that needs a capillary tube.
 
what do you use for the capillary tube, just vinyl tubing, or what?
 
No, it's a sealed metal tube. Braised or soldered on, I believe. It isn't typically a DIY job. Early gauges are fully mechanical so you lose a couple wires and gain a small metal tube similar to the oil pressure gauge tube. Of course this means you never have to deal with the pesky temp sender again.
 
It's a gas expansion device, ether bulb. Nisonger rebuilds 'em and calibrates 'em properly. $150 was what the last one cost me to have redone. If you found a "new" one for that, and a guarantee it WORKS I'd say get it. I've seen upwards of $300 for 'em.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]didn't wanna bid over $80 [/QUOTE]

don't want to bid over $50!
 
tony barnhill said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]didn't wanna bid over $80
Click to expand...

don't want to bid over $50! [/QUOTE]


Ain't gonna get an NOS one for that price and there is no reason it isn't going to work if its NIB.---Keoke
 
If it's new NIB then it will work great. If it's 40-years-old NIB then the old grease they used back then is gonna be a bit dried out. The gauge should then be disassembled, cleaned and greased with fresh lubricants.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If it's 40-years-old NIB then the old grease they used back then is gonna be a bit dried out. The gauge should then be disassembled, cleaned and greased with fresh lubricants.[/QUOTE]

My point exactly - there's no difference between a NOS one & a good used one - except the good used one has been working for many, many years - both will probably need to be opened!
 
hmmmmm... now i'm confused? Every dual gauge (not installed) I've looked at only has one line connected to it. I've always assumed this line to be the line for the temp, because it has what appears to be a temp sensor on the end.

These same dual gauges have a little tube in the back, but no line connected to it. I've always assumed this little tube to be connected to the oil pressure gauge. To get this connected to the engine, I also assumed that you had to use some length of some sort of flexible tubing.

None of the dual gauges I've seen had two lines already connected...

Or is it done some other way that I just don't know about?
 
The flexible line with the bulb on the end is for water temp...the oil side hooks to an oil line...a good guage should have 1 flexible line hooked to it - water & a place where the oil line can be screwed to it. Make sure the flex line isn't borken of hasn't been opened to allow the gas (argon?) to escape.
 
Steve_S said:
If it's new NIB then it will work great. If it's 40-years-old NIB then the old grease they used back then is gonna be a bit dried out. The gauge should then be disassembled, cleaned and greased with fresh lubricants.
Click to expand...

They are completely sealed units and the gear train is not lubricated. Most failures are asociated with the gear teeth becoming out of mesh because the bearing pivots have worn.---Keoke
 
oh wait, I think I know now. What you were calling a tube and what I was thinking of were two different things. When you were saying it needs the capillary tube, I was thinking of the line that connects the oil press gauge to the engine...

So anyways, ~back~ to my original question properly (hopefully) worded this time. How do you connect the oil pressure gauge to the engine; with some length of flexible oil resistant tubing?
 
bah... i'm too slow apparently... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

thanks for the reply Tony /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]They are completely sealed units and the gear train is not lubricated.---Keoke [/QUOTE]

You're right, Keoke...don't know what I was thinking about...the temp side is completely sealed & shouldn't be messed with...just make sure the capillary tube (flex line) isn't broken or hasn't allowed the gas to escape.....you can open the face to clean it but nothing else that I can think of (though you could clean the oil side I suppose).

My bad.
 
OH that's ok Tony. I have one in my car that tickles me to death. It gets to 160 Degrees and stops when the thermal pressure gets high enough it hop"s and then goes on up scale. at least I know she's warm in up.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
A copper 1/8th line runs from the engine oil pressure outlet to the guage, it can be/is spliced to the tube from the guage with a small bit of rubber tube with clamps at each end.

for example bugeyes and mark II sprites and MGs Mark I have the rubber hose. The rest of the spridgets do not, direct connection of the copper tube as I remember.

Test the bulb in boiling water, test the oil line with air pressure from your compressor with a guage on it.

Enjoy
 
For some reason, I must've been thinking about some other guage...as I get older, all these MG parts start running together in my head & I have to physically go out & look at one....that said, $100 is a good price on a NOS, still in the box dual water/oil temp guage if its still sealed.
 
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