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Slight problem with rear hubs [EType]

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Basil

Basil

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I am one step closer to getting my EType's IRS completed and installed back in the car, but have a small question for which I suspect there is a simple answer, but I don't know what it is. Yesterday, I installed my newly rebuilt rear hub carries/hubs which have been rebuilt with new bearings, and the lower carrier bearings properly preloaded. The proper axel spacers have been fitted to provide .004" of endfloat. But when I install the hub washers and castlenuts to afix the hub to the axel shaft and torque to 140ftlbs (per the manual), one of the "walls" of the castle nut partially covers the hole in the threaded axel end so that I can't get the cotter pin in to secure the castle nut. I installed the splined hubs into the axel shaft per the manual so that the access hole in the hub aligns with the hole in the threaded part of the exel shaft.

I'm sure this is a common problem, but what is the solution?

Thanks,
Basil

PS: I thought of just backing off the castle until I could access the cotterpin hole, but then the nut would not be torqued to the specs. Is this the only solution?
 
Can't say for sure on a Jag but with other castle nuts, back off to first hole.

Good luck

Bruce
 
[ QUOTE ]
Can't say for sure on a Jag but with other castle nuts, back off to first hole.

Good luck

Bruce

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, that seems like the only logical solution, but I'm just concerned that the torque settng won't be right, but maybe it will still be "close enough?"

Basil
 
Update. I happened to run into a friend who's a Jag Mechanic and he said if I torque it to 140 then back off just enough to accomodate the cotter pin it should be fine, so that's what I'm going to do,

Basil
 
Hello Basil,
If you are nearly there, then I would go just that bit tighter to get the pin in, as you will go a long way back to the next flat.
You could also try another nut as the thread start and nut flat orientation is random. Ideally the nut or washer could be machined to get everything spot on, but that is being a bit too fussy (Unless, like me, you happen to have a lathe which makes it nothing of a job.)

Alec
 
Basil, All responses are acceptable. I prefer backing off or going forward to the next slot match, whichever causes the least radial rotation from torque match.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Basil, All responses are acceptable. I prefer backing off or going forward to the next slot match, whichever causes the least radial rotation from torque match.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, that'w what I did. I backed off just enough to allow the cotter pin access.

Basil
 
Basil,

Try swapping the two castle nuts with each other. Depending upon the batch of nuts, the threads don't always line up as if the tap that cut the threads was a different tap. One other thing to try is swapping the two washers. Mic. them first to see if the two have a few thousandths of an inch different thickness. That will also affect the allignment of the cotter pin hole.
 
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