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Sleeved Block???

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I have my cylinder head in the trusty hands of UPS and am in the process of cleaning up the remains of the old head gasket. Upon close inspection what do I see under all the crud but sleeved cylinder walls! Or at least what looks like sleeves. The shop that rebuilt my engine originally told me that "it had a lot of slap" and would need to be bored. I was told that they bored the block 20 over. Will sleeved cylinder walls affect my having the head shaved and the compression brought up to 9.5:1? This is curious in that I always believed that I was just working with a straight bored engine. Do sleeves in a TR6 in any way affect it's potential performance? Are there any measuremnet that I can take with my caliper to tell me how much bore and what size sleeves? The block is a 1973 with the beveled edge at the top of the bore.

Bill
 
I am not familiar with the TR6 blocks per se, so i'll just give a general answer. I'm sure i'll be corrected if i'm wrong. A sleeved block should not have any bearing on performance. There should be no difference between a sleeved and a non sleeved block, performance wise that is. I wouldn't worry about it too much. $0.02 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
This is strange, under normal circumstances these blocks are not sleeved unless the cylinder walls were worn beyond the largest pistons that are offered and then when they are to be sleeved, the sleeves are pressed in and in the process will distort the cylinders on either side, ask me how I know. Its because I had it done to my block this past spring because of a valve dropping down and scaring the cylinder wall beyound being able to simply bore it to the next size. Sleeving this one cylinder will last as long as the rest of the block so there should be no worries. Good luck with your engine work.
 
I must be suffering from old-timer's disease. It is all coming back to me now. Five years ago when I purchased this TR6, the mechanic showed me where there was excessive "slap" or out-or-round wear. (the engine actually ran, amazing that these beasts will run even when completely worn out) We had the block bored and sleeved then rebored (as per the Bentley manual) and I think it is now 20 over. The sleeve was bored down to match the shoulder atop the cylinder wall. (I love the way the Bentley refers to this as being "proud" of the cylinder lip or slightly taller than. Thus the cutting down.) Seems all is well. Will call the machinist tomorrow to talk about the machining of the head and the port work. Carbs are at the carb guy, header is at another machinist. Hurricane Rita ripped a new one, right on the heels of Katrina. My TR6 keeps me sane.

One last one: Firing stroke of number one cylinder is when indicator points to zero? Right?

Bill
 
This is interesting Bill. I just pulled the heads off my '71 TR6 and noticed all cylinders were sleeved. The motor had about 65k on it and had never been rebuilt to my knowledge. Maybe my knowledge is lacking as I thought the TR6 motor came straight from the factory without sleeves?
 
To my knowledge, the four cylinder engine (TR2-4) was factory sleeved and the six cylinder was not. The Bentley book has a whole section on sleeving the TR6 block.
Methinks, if it is sleeved, it is rebuilt and bored a lot.

Bill
 
I have to agree with everyone else. I had to have my block sleeved after a spring broke and the valved dropped into the cylinder. Looked ugly at the time but I ran it for 10 years before I took the car off the road to do a complete rebuild..
 
I agree with you TR6BILL, I have had my tr250 engine apart for 3 rebuilds and unlike the TR3 and TR4, there are not liners to pull out and replace, if the 6 cylinder engine is showing sleeves, its because it was repaired in the past.
 
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