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Side shift Transmission repair.

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BlueRidge1

Jedi Warrior
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Hello,

I pulled my transmission out today while watching the NASCAR race and took the side cover off to access the first and second gear fork that is worn and keeps jamming. My question is concerning the tie wire that secures the bolts on the forks?
Is there a certain type / gauge or brand of wire I need to use and where can I get it?

Thanks Bob
 
I use .040" safety wire, made for the purpose.

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Here's some info on safety wiring, used extensively on aircraft. Note that safety wiring is not meant to keep the part from unfastening--proper torque should take care of that--but to keep it from coming apart entirely. The wire should always pull in the direction of tightening the bolt/screw/whatever, and don't forget to put the 'curl' on the sharp end of the twist because the skin you save may be your own:

https://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html

https://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_116.htm


Harbor Freight has a decent set of pliers:

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twister-45341.html

If you want to go first rate:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/safetywirekits.php
 
zblu said:
Ok,
Just that with MOWOG (Morris Works Garages)wasn't sure
Click to expand...
<span style="text-decoration: underline">MO</span>rris<span style="text-decoration: underline">WO</span>seleym<span style="text-decoration: underline">G</span> = MOWOG

It's on ALL the 6 cylinder cars, and at least the BN2 xmsn.

Actually, the C-Series engine is a Morris design; apparently BMC didn't see the need to change the name to Morris-Healey.
 
Thanks guys. And great pictures Randy.

Randy, I want to send you a couple pictures tomorrow of the inside of my transmission . the syncromesh sleeve is pushed way forward on the 3rd and fouth gear sycronizer and I can't get it to move back over the spring loaded balls in the syncronizer. I will send some pictures to your e-mail address.

Thanks
Bob
 
BlueRidge1 said:
Thanks guys. And great pictures Randy.

Randy, I want to send you a couple pictures tomorrow of the inside of my transmission . <span style="font-weight: bold">the syncromesh sleeve is pushed way forward on the 3rd and fouth gear sycronizer and I can't get it to move back over the spring loaded balls in the syncronizer</span>. I will send some pictures to your e-mail address.

Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...
That happened to me once when I was driving from Atlanta to my folk's place in Florida. Four hundred (400) miles in fourth (4th) and fourth overdrive.

Pulled the trans out that night with my brother's help, and bought less than a dollar's worth (<$1.00) of springs at the local ACE Hdwr the next day, and put it back together.

Fault diagnosis, was that the new third (3rd) gear synchromesh ring was not to spec, and allowed the synchro hub to travel too close to 3rd gear, while the "collar" was moving towards 4th gear, allowing the balls & springs to escape. The springs sticking out of the hub prevented the collar from disengaging direct/4th gear.

Sound familiar?
 
Randy,
Yes it sounds like what happen to mine except I was lucky enough to be in my garage when it happened. I was just on my way to take my tonneau cover to the upolstery shop when it jammed.
I ordered some balls and springs today from moss and all the needle bearings for the layshaft. A few of the needle bearings had some slight pitting so I thought it best to replace them while I have the shaft out.
One thing that has me a little confused is the detent balls that hold the shift rods. Not the three that come in from the side but the two that would capture between the rods. When I removed the square bolt on the top there appears to be a ball droped on top of the third and forth gear rod. That seems incorect since the dent is in the bottem of the rod. It looks as though one should rest between the 3rd and 4th gear rod and the 2nd and 3rd gear rod and one between 2nd and third rod and the reverse rod but there isn't one there. Also should they have a spring load or do they just work from gravity?
Also in the parts break down they show a part called an interlocking rivet that is identified as part 61 in the green Austin Healey Manuel. I don't see that part in my transmission at all or even an attachment point,. One other thing I notice in the manuel the gear cuts are in a reverse image and look opposite from my actual parts. If you can clarify the location of the detent balls I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Bob
 
IMG_7357.jpg


IMG_7358.jpg


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IMG_7363.jpg


The rivet, if I understand you correctly, is inside the selector rod, barely seen below the top ball in the 3rd picture. The intent, is to prevent__mechanically__the selection of more than one (>1) gear at a time.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Here's some info on safety wiring, used extensively on aircraft. Note that safety wiring is not meant to keep the part from unfastening--proper torque should take care of that--but to keep it from coming apart entirely. The wire should always pull in the direction of tightening the bolt/screw/whatever, and don't forget to put the 'curl' on the sharp end of the twist because the skin you save may be your own:

https://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html

https://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_116.htm


Harbor Freight has a decent set of pliers:

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twister-45341.html

If you want to go first rate:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/safetywirekits.php
Click to expand...
The safety-wire pliers should be turned/rotated at a slow rate and not spun like there's no tomorrow. The fast spinning will affect the safety wire strength(so I'm told). 20 & 32 thou is pretty much standard safety wire thickness. I did a lot of safety wiring when I was in the Navy as an AE, aircraft electrician, working on aircraft. Always mentally walk through the electrical plug and bolt heads to ensure you're going in the right direction.
Patrick
 
Randy,

I'am glad you verified that because that is how thought it should work. Obviously someone worked on this transmission in the past (prior to 1973 because that is when it was parked ) This was likely the reason for my jams. They had simply uncapped the square bolt at the top of the unit and dropped two balls in the hole that was riding on the top rod not really doing anything. Another thing I see that most likely is causing a problem is the oil seal appears to be pushed to far in the tail shaft and resting against the bearing. The seal is just riding the end of the universal joint yoke and leaking oil. I am ready to reassemble the unit as soon as I receive a second gear baulking ring from VB. Do you think changing a bulking ring could eliminate a slight grinding into second gear? It usually upshifts into second without a grind if I shift slowly. Downshifting to second is a little more difficult with out a grind.
When the rods are lined up as shown in your picture, what gear is the unit in?

Thanks for your help.
Bob
 
BlueRidge1 said:
Randy,

I'am glad you verified that because that is how thought it should work. Obviously someone worked on this transmission in the past (prior to 1973 because that is when it was parked ) This was likely the reason for my jams. They had simply uncapped the square bolt at the top of the unit and dropped two balls in the hole that was riding on the top rod not really doing anything. Another thing I see that most likely is causing a problem is the oil seal appears to be pushed to far in the tail shaft and resting against the bearing. The seal is just riding the end of the universal joint yoke and leaking oil. I am ready to reassemble the unit as soon as I receive a second gear baulking ring from VB. <span style="font-weight: bold">Do you think changing a bulking ring could eliminate a slight grinding into second gear?</span> It usually upshifts into second without a grind if I shift slowly. Downshifting to second is a little more difficult with out a grind.
<span style="font-weight: bold">When the rods are lined up as shown in your picture, what gear is the unit in?</span>
Thanks for your help.
Bob
Click to expand...
As long as the cone section of the gear isn't worn too thin, a fresh synchronizer ring should make shifts into second, up, or down, easier (and quieter). However, any synchronizer can be beaten, so don't expect miracles.

As shown, the rods depict no gear selected; neutral. The center detent is neutral, and the rods with a detent on either side, would be for 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th. The rod with only two (2) detents is for reverse.

IMG_7351.jpg


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