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Side shift tranny with shifting issues

britndablood

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I have a 1960 BT7 back on the road after 15 yrs. The PO had the tranny rebuilt at some point and I just read the string about the BJ7 shifting issues . Should I be tryingthe same things ? Higher oil level and cover adjustment? Any pointers would be apprieated. If it matters it is OD and if I am stopped at a light it is easier to start in fourth and work my.way.back 3,2,1 otherwise it wont go in gear
 
Have you tried going into 2nd before going into first? It works for me nearly all the time. Oil level has nothing to do with gear shifting, only with OD operation.
Is your clutch fully disengaging? What happens when you try a gear other than 4th? Does it just not go, or does it grind gears?
 
It dose not grind but just wont go in and it will go in 3 instead of 4 but not as easily. If I and oil what oil should I add? I don't want to put red line in until this is resolved
 
Since the long layup, has the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder been rebuilt or replaced?

Also, have you been able to put any/many real road miles on it yet?

My money says that the clutch is not fully disengaging; either by fault of minimal slave travel (including severly worn clevis pins/pushrods)or because of "debris" (rust/scale/grease) between the flywheel, driven disc &/or pressure plate.
 
Last night I was bolting up the gearbox to an engine to run it up for testing and noticed there is not much locating the gearbox concentrically on the engine. I have the two dowel bolts but they aren't exactly tight fitting in any of the holes.

I wonder how many of these clutch-dragging issues could be simply the gearbox not being concentric to the engine which is loading the pilot bearing and tipping the clutch disc off line?
 
Had this problem at first start up and thought it was the pilot so I pulled the tranny replaced the pilotand surfaced the flywheel. The clutch was a newBWby the POand the slave and hose I replaced along with a rebuilt master sorry I did not include that to begin with. Still new to asking for help
 
britndablood said:
If it is a missalignment of the clutch should I loosen the bell housing and try to reposition the tranny?
Are the clevis pins worn, and/or holes elongated in either the pedal or clutch actuating fork?

With enough wear, effective slave travel can be reduced to 1/4", and that 's just not enough.

I don't ask for help very often either, but just a couple days ago, I had a few members come through with some valuable information (and a picture). When you don't know, you don't know!
 
Loosened up all the bolts Engine to Bell housing and verified that the bolts in the dowel holes were large enough to do the job. Then started tightening with the dowel holes first. All back together. Thank you for the good info, and the link to the other article. Randy I had in question the length of the push rod that is in the slave. When I was reassembling I was thinking of how far the slave would push the arm and I compressed the slave there was an extra 1/2 inch that the slave had travel and the rod was short. So for now I have made an adjustable one. I took the rod out, drilled and tapped the end then threaded a round headed screw with a lock nut into the rod and added almost the 1/2 inch that it was missing. Leaving a little slack so that the throwout bearing is not ridding on the pressure plate. We shall see if it worked tomorrow. Thanks for all your advise, I will keep you updated.
Cheers,
Casey
 
It worked! I don't know if loosening up and realingning th tranny did any thing bit I know that the push rod in the slave was a half inch too short. Thanks for the input, hope to return the favor sometime. Cheers.
 
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