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Side Lamps/Signal Lights
- Thread starter SimsBJ8
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Bob - until more experienced guys reply ... if you've got good ground and wiring (connections are not corroded or oxidized), I'd think all four not working would be the flasher unit.
Do the flashers work, but the indicators don't? EDIT: None of the flashers (front/back) work, but the panel indicator light does? All other lights work ok?
When did the problem start?
Tom M.
When did the problem start?
Tom M.
Last edited:
Tom, thanks for the response.
My background is a career in connectors and wiring design, so yes, I am comfortable. What I am not comfortable with is twisting and turning to get to the possible open circuit, on my back under the dash, etc. (getting old as we all are). This is the reason I am looking to isolate the problem. My guess is most probable the flasher. My next guess is the trafficator, and I am hopeful it is not that. All working, then nothing. No lights and no dash indicators. I do not know when it happened, so I cannot tie it to anything. It is difficult for me to see the dash indicators so I almost never look at them, and of course, I cannot see the lights on the outside of the car. I drive the car at least once a week and now I am on hold for safety reasons with the turn signals. If I have time tonight, I plan to take a meter and start checking things out.
Thanks again, Bob
My background is a career in connectors and wiring design, so yes, I am comfortable. What I am not comfortable with is twisting and turning to get to the possible open circuit, on my back under the dash, etc. (getting old as we all are). This is the reason I am looking to isolate the problem. My guess is most probable the flasher. My next guess is the trafficator, and I am hopeful it is not that. All working, then nothing. No lights and no dash indicators. I do not know when it happened, so I cannot tie it to anything. It is difficult for me to see the dash indicators so I almost never look at them, and of course, I cannot see the lights on the outside of the car. I drive the car at least once a week and now I am on hold for safety reasons with the turn signals. If I have time tonight, I plan to take a meter and start checking things out.
Thanks again, Bob
None of the lights in the turn signals circuit are working. In other words, front right and left turn signals, rear right and left turn signals, and the right and left turn signal indicators on the dash, are all not working. The running lights, brake lights, and headlamps all work. Attached is a file for the wiring circuit that is not working (has an open in it that I need to identify).
I am going to purchase a new flasher unit. If that does not fix it, I will have a spare flasher unit and will need to dig deeper.
Thanks for your help. It is very much appreciated.
Bob
I am going to purchase a new flasher unit. If that does not fix it, I will have a spare flasher unit and will need to dig deeper.
Thanks for your help. It is very much appreciated.
Bob
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You can check the trafficator by reading voltage at the connectors, coming out of the front of the steering box. I don't have a schematic handy, but power goes to the trafficator in a large--12ga maybe--brown wire. The trafficator switches power to the horn--is yours working?--and each of the two turn signal circuits (hopefully, not all at once). You should be able, IIRC, to get to the steering box by removing the F/L wheel.
Healeys' wiring circuits are connected using 1-1 or 2-2 bullet connectors with a rubber sheath. My dad's '28 and '31 Model As used the same type connectors. I'm convinced many of the notorious Lucas electrical gremlins are due to this 'technology,' which is prone to corrosion and weak connections. As a rule, when working with these I tighten the crimp and pack the connector with dielectric grease before reconnecting (sometimes, the metal part will break with handling). I even bought special pliers for making sure the bullet tips are inserted completely; others have fabbed similar from regular pliers.
Healeys' wiring circuits are connected using 1-1 or 2-2 bullet connectors with a rubber sheath. My dad's '28 and '31 Model As used the same type connectors. I'm convinced many of the notorious Lucas electrical gremlins are due to this 'technology,' which is prone to corrosion and weak connections. As a rule, when working with these I tighten the crimp and pack the connector with dielectric grease before reconnecting (sometimes, the metal part will break with handling). I even bought special pliers for making sure the bullet tips are inserted completely; others have fabbed similar from regular pliers.
