Side Curtain Windows

[kodpkd]

I just restored the side curtains. I used a fine wire brush to clean up the frame. They were scratched up bad. I got the rubber seals from Moss. I got plexiglass from Home Depot, 1/8" thick,,, 12" X 36" $27. The old windows were not so great. Before and after pictures

 

[prb51]

Very nice.... there are some great plastic polishes out there to keep them that way.

 

[kodpkd]

I will probably get the aviation polish. I have used it on windows a lot.

 

[prb51]

I've used the Novus products with good results...heavy and light applications. Does a good job on the top rear window too.

 

[Jack T]

I just restored the side curtains. I used a fine wire brush to clean up the frame. They were scratched up bad. I got the rubber seals from Moss. I got plexiglass from Home Depot, 1/8" thick,,, 12" X 36" $27. The old windows were not so great. Before and after picturesView attachment 84190


View attachment 84191

Showoff! Seriously, very nicely done.

 

[kodpkd]

Thank you. I see so many AH's with bad side curtains. It isn't that hard to restore them. I hope this helps people to restore their cars.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Thank you. I see so many AH's with bad side curtains. It isn't that hard to restore them. I hope this helps people to restore their cars.

I redid the windows to make them both "slideable" and provided a bit less "overlap" between the front and rear panels so that when I push the rear window forward there is enough room for me to comfortably rest my left elbow in the opening. I decided to use Lexan as it is much stronger than plexiglass which can produce nasty, sharp edges when it breaks.

 

[kodpkd]

In my research on plastic window glass, I found that the Lexan is much stronger against impact damage, but scratches easier. I have never had a window break, but have had them get all scratched up.

 

[BobHaskell]

How did you cut the Lexan / plexiglass?

 

[kodpkd]

I used a jigsaw. I got a couple different blades. Coarse and fine. I experimented with fast and slow speeds and more or less orbital. You have to be careful not to get it hot; it will melt. I used the coarser blade. Use the old windows to experiment. After it was cut, I used a random orbital sander to smooth the edges and take a bit off the width. Don't take the paper cover off until you are ready for final install.

I used the bottom edge of the 12"x36" as the bottom of the two pieces. I cut one long piece with both windows on it. You have to figure how wide of an overlap you want. I used the angled front edge to measure the angled cut in the middle of the glass. This cut isn't that critical. The top edge is important. If the window is too wide, it will be too tight, too narrow, too loose. The front angle edge is critical. You want it to match the front of the frame. The front half isn't supposed to move so you want it tight in the frame.

Hold the glass steady and tight. It can jump up and down. Not good, especially when coming to the end of a cut, it can break.

 

[Michael Oritt]

In my research on plastic window glass. The Lexan is much stronger against impact damage but scratches easier. I have never had a window break but have had them get all scratched up.

"Regular" Lexan/polycarbonate apparently does scratch more easily than plexi. This doesn't:

Clear LEXAN™ MR10 Polycarbonate Sheet with Margard™ II Coating | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Mar/UV-resistant LEXAN™ Margard™ MR10 sheet combines the impact strength of LEXAN™ polycarbonate sheet with a proprietary abrasion/UV res...

www.usplastic.com

I cut with an electric jigsaw using a fine blade, keeping speed low to avoid melting the material, then a rasp and sandpaper to smooth and radius the edges.

 

[kodpkd]

That does look like good stuff. I bit pricey. I found that a 12" x 36" is the minimum common size to get one side curtain cut.