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After many hours of frustration - it's time to ask for help. I searched "shut pillar" and found some good info, but mostly for later Healeys and not exactly what I am looking for. I had a good fit - front fender - door - rocker - rear fender. Then i installed the latch pieces and found the shut pillar angle was off on the body of the car. Cut the pillar off - re-welded and all looked good. Then i got the finisher pieces and saw they were embossed which completely changes the angle of the latch mechanism again. What i don't understand is that the shut pillar is recessed and the finishing plate is raised (and angled) creating a void between the two (i know the 1/8 inch aluminum finishing plate was not meant to take the clamp pressure created by tightening the 4 screws let alone the slamming of a car door). Also, the angle of the raised section of the finishing plate will push the edge of the shut pillar back at least a 1/4 of an inch making the door gap off. Looking for feedback of anyone who has installed the pieces and of course pictures. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Shut Pillar installation - 62 BT7
- Thread starter Morris56
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RAC68
Darth Vader
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Hi Morris56,
Just wanted to start the discussion off and let you know that you are not the only one to have had this difficulty.
When fitting my driverās side jam in my BJ8P1 in the late ā80s, I found that directly replacing the new jam in the location of the previous unit was no guaranty of a proper fit. Since my presumption and inexperience pushed me to fully weld (a new talent being developed) the new unit in place, destruction was my only option in its removal. Frustrated, but with a replacement in hand, I reinstalled front fender and door, placing sufficient wedges between the aft portion of the door box and sill to reduce possible door sag and maintain desired spacing.
With jam finishing panel and latch fitted loosely, I positioned the jam to where I thought it should be and lightly tacked the unit in place. After repositioning slightly (with a hammer) to accommodate the proper fit of the rear fender, I secured the jam a little better (but not permanently) and installed and tightened all panels for a last test-fit. Again, after some slight hammer adjusting, I permanently secured the jam in place and installed all panels to final fit.
I appreciate that you have probably found this process for yourself; however, it is always nice to find that others may not have found a better way.
All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
Just wanted to start the discussion off and let you know that you are not the only one to have had this difficulty.
When fitting my driverās side jam in my BJ8P1 in the late ā80s, I found that directly replacing the new jam in the location of the previous unit was no guaranty of a proper fit. Since my presumption and inexperience pushed me to fully weld (a new talent being developed) the new unit in place, destruction was my only option in its removal. Frustrated, but with a replacement in hand, I reinstalled front fender and door, placing sufficient wedges between the aft portion of the door box and sill to reduce possible door sag and maintain desired spacing.
With jam finishing panel and latch fitted loosely, I positioned the jam to where I thought it should be and lightly tacked the unit in place. After repositioning slightly (with a hammer) to accommodate the proper fit of the rear fender, I secured the jam a little better (but not permanently) and installed and tightened all panels for a last test-fit. Again, after some slight hammer adjusting, I permanently secured the jam in place and installed all panels to final fit.
I appreciate that you have probably found this process for yourself; however, it is always nice to find that others may not have found a better way.
All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
Johnny
Darth Vader
Offline
Hi Morris, the early cars didn't have very good door latches to begin with. The reason for the sunken pillar and the raised embossed is to create a "gap" to fill with aluminum plates. It's a trial and error fit. The latch itself has washer shims also. The only good news is that the door latch attached to the pillar is easily accessible.
Thanks to both. I was unsure that the "shims" wen't between the trim and panel since thhe trim is embossed at an angle... but at least it will add some support. What i did overlook was the obvious (at least now it is). Shimming the latch mechnism can help adjust out those last couple of angle differences (the ones the hammer did not). Thanks again - time to head back out to the garage and burn off a couple of turkey calories