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Should I remove driver's side fender to work on footbox on my BN1?

55modified

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So I want to install a Tilton pedal assembly on my modified Healey. Seems like it would be smart to just pull the fender so I can have access to the foot box.

Here is the question. Am I going to regret removing it after i go to replace it? It lines up great now with the door and i hate to "disturb" the fit. Should I be concerned about this? Will be tough job for sure if I don't remove it.
 

Keoke

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So I want to install a Tilton pedal assembly on my modified Healey. Seems like it would be smart to just pull the fender so I can have access to the foot box.

Here is the question. Am I going to regret removing it after i go to replace it? It lines up great now with the door and i hate to "disturb" the fit. Should I be concerned about this? Will be tough job for sure if I don't remove it.

Yep all your fears are well founded.:excitement:
 
OP
55modified

55modified

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No way I am taking that door off! Thanks for the replies.
 

RAC68

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When installing a bilge blower into my cold air duct, I wanted to make sure the blower was well hidden between the foot well and fender with all electrical connections in place and secured. This would not be possible without removing the fender and could have resulted in damage to the fender and cowl if trying to lean over these components during the installation.

As a result of my installation objectives, I found removing the door and front fender to be a reasonably straight forward approach and one not as risky as would be expected. This could be because all components were properly fit prior and acquired a memory to fall back in place on reinstallation. After outlining the door hinge positions with tape, I removed the hinge bolts from the door jam and removed the door. From there, the fender bolts under the dash, along the cowl, and along the bottom were removed and the fender lifted off.

I can't say that there is no risk of paint chipping or even running in to difficulties with refit and finish so you will have to evaluate the negative potential against the difficulty of installing the Tilton peddle with all in place. If you can gain access to do the installation without removing fender/door then that seem the logical way to go.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

vette

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I don't believe removing the front fender is that big of a deal. There really isn't that much to it. But I would absolutely tape up all perimeter edges on the door, & shroud and maybe even the fender itself. Maybe using two layers of tape. Also taping back from the edge another tapes width. The bear of the front fenders is reach ing some of the bolts. But it is easier using long extensions on rachets, etc. Probably will have to remove the air cleaners. Of course also the lights. But with care I believe you can do it with no damage. Also alignment should not really be a problem unless your fenders were forced into place to begin with. Which is not the way to do it. One more point, if you do decide to remove the door, you can drill the hinge plates with 1/8th inch drill bits. Drill straight thru to and thru the body & door sheet metal. (easiest to do the plate on the 'A' pillar). Drill two holes in each plate. When it comes time to rehang the door, you line up the 1/8th inch holes and slide the 1/8th inch drill bits into the holes and keep them their till the bolts are all tightened. The the hinge plate is in the exact same place it was before you removed it.
 
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55modified

55modified

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I don't believe removing the front fender is that big of a deal. There really isn't that much to it. But I would absolutely tape up all perimeter edges on the door, & shroud and maybe even the fender itself. Maybe using two layers of tape. Also taping back from the edge another tapes width. The bear of the front fenders is reach ing some of the bolts. But it is easier using long extensions on rachets, etc. Probably will have to remove the air cleaners. Of course also the lights. But with care I believe you can do it with no damage. Also alignment should not really be a problem unless your fenders were forced into place to begin with. Which is not the way to do it. One more point, if you do decide to remove the door, you can drill the hinge plates with 1/8th inch drill bits. Drill straight thru to and thru the body & door sheet metal. (easiest to do the plate on the 'A' pillar). Drill two holes in each plate. When it comes time to rehang the door, you line up the 1/8th inch holes and slide the 1/8th inch drill bits into the holes and keep them their till the bolts are all tightened. The the hinge plate is in the exact same place it was before you removed it.

Thank you sir. Is it possible to get fender off without removing the door first?

Paint issues are not a problem as it is due for a respray.
 

vette

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I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the door to get the fender off. It has been a few years since I put mine back together and I have done a few other cars since but I'm pretty sure the Healey door does not have to come off. When I restored my Healey the body and etc was stripped to every last bolt. My car had sever rust and had some accident damage. The only part of the car that I could be sure was really true was the the 'A' pillars, (the front hinge post). So I hung the doors and then built the body around them. They were hung on the unmolested hinge post without shims and then I fitted everything else to line up with the doors. So the doors went on first. the front fenders were some of the last things I put on.
 

Mike Tobin

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I found that the flange at the rear of the fender would not clear the space between the hinge post and the door. The door had to come off. Hint putting it back on. cut the heads of a couple bolts the same thread size as the hinge screws Use them as locating pins and as a third hand to hold the doors while you fit the screws.
 

RAC68

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Hi All,

Vette mentioned the taping of all part edges and Mike mentioned the use of location pins for the hinges. These are very good suggestions and would very much help reduce the risk of the task on the body work.

I have no idea of the complexity addressing the BN1 windshield would have on the job but I do remember a friend removed a BN1 fender with the windshield in its most vertical position. Although I removed my fender and door without assistance, I would suggest having another set of hands would help greatly when handling these large parts (fender, door, windshield?).

Good luck,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

RAC68

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Hi John,

That makes sense but my BJ8 windshield can stay in place and, again if I remember correctly, the BN1/2 windshield can be moved sufficiently to allow fender removal. I must admit that, as I get older, so does my memory, so I caution "55Modified" to evaluate this for himself.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:

vette

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Yes, I must admit that memory does get a little cloudy for me as well. I am sorry if I miss lead "55Modified" but I must say that now I also remember that my fenders are modified aftermarket and might be a little different around the top back corner of the fender. But it appears that there has been a good discussion of it.
 
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