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Should have been obvious….

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Rob Glasgow

Rob Glasgow

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Several months ago, the diaphragm in the heater control valve gave up after 46 years of reliable service. I replaced the valve, repainted the heater box and installed new heater hoses. On the next drive, I put my hand up under the dash to see if I could feel any leaks around the valve. No leaks-a good thing. But what I discovered was that the incoming heater hose was extremely hot. Then it dawned on me. 1. The hose is full of water at engine temperature (180 deg.). 2. The exposed 12 inches of hose inside the cockpit makes a wonderful supplementary heater – fine for winter driving but not really a good thing when the summer temperature outside is 100 degrees. Lord knows a Healey doesn’t need more heat in the summer.
It should have been obvious… that’s why they put that shut off petcock on the side of the engine. After 43 years of ownership, I now know you are suppose to shut off the flow to the heater during the hot weather. After I closed it, the hose is now just cockpit warm, not engine hot.
Live and learn.

Rob
 
The only problem can be that when you try to close that valve after it hasn't been touched in 20-40 years, you can easily break off the handle or develop a leak in the valve that wasn't present before you touched the darn thing. (Don't ask me how I know this) But then the replacement valve is only $120.
 
The water valves have conical mating surfaces and a spring to maintain sealing pressure. A few taps with a soft tipped hammer on the spring side should unseat the surfaces allowing it to be turned without breaking the handle (btw, if you do break the handle the stub unscrews and replacements are avail.) If the valve is still stuck they come apart when the cotter pin and spring are removed (easier to do if you remove the entire valve). Use a bit of lapping compound to get the mating surfaces smooth and then some anti-seize lube to help keep it working smoothly.

Cheers,
John
 
Hi Shorn,there is a shortcut here if you are in a bind.You can take a pair of Dikes slip the jaws gently under the head of the heater valve [The Ball] and gently pry up until it pops up.Generally the valve can then be shut off.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
I have one with a broken handle, but Bill Bolton sent me a new one. I just have to remove the valve from the block and try to drill and easy out the stub. I am waiting until the good weather passes in case I screw it up and have to get another valve. I am not real confident in drilling out the old handle.
 
Well in that case Shorn,just start with small drills until You reach the size for the EZY-out.---Keoke
 
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I'm interested. Who supplies these?

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I knew when I wrote that it would come back to haunt me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I can't recall where I saw these now. Thought it might be these guys https://www.dunritetool.com/index.html but appears not. (Although I bet they would make it if you asked nice enough). I'm out of here for a few weeks but will revisit this when I get back.

Cheers,
John
 
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