Shock tower top plate replacement

[bighly]

I have a 60 BT7 that some clown has welded a plate to the top of my shock mounting plate on the front end. I will be replacing this with a real replacement as I go through my front end. Has anyone done this and if so what were the got-yas. I also would like to know if anyone has the alignment measurements since placement of this weld will effect camber/caster and toe-in.

 

[John Loftus]

Perhaps when you remove the welded on plate the original plate w/captive nuts will be under it and you can use them to measure to the other shock tower. Then if you make a plate(using a mill) that spans both the shock towers and has corresponding holes for the shock bolts you can bolt into the good tower and this will fixture your new shock plate (with perhaps some shimming for level). If the original holes cannot be found I would find the centerline of the frame, measure to the good tower and then make the fixure plate described above.

BTW, there is a chassis alignment diagram in the Austin-Healey 100-6, 3000 Workshop manual but it doesn't give dimensions for the front shock area.

My BJ7 (same chassis) is down to the frame except for the rearend and front suspension. After a bit more work (few weeks) by the bodyman I will be tearing the rest down and can give you measurements if needed.

John

 

[tlthorne]

i have the same basic problem with a BJ8, only the
plate is there but slots cut in it, guessing the
bolts broke that hold the shock down? some attempt was made to add a "regular" type shock
(i guess you take the valve out of the armstrong
shock?) i think that the metal will be strong
enough(read thick) to take mig/tig welding.
one of those projects on the back burner. could
take some pics and share the thought process?
my email is tlthorne@apci.net never too old to
learn another nugget of knowledge!

Good Luck!
tt

 

[John Loftus]

Originally there are captive nuts in the shock tower plate. The bolts get loose because the shock body material is soft and quite often the nuts strip out. I drilled out two of the nuts and used helicoil inserts to repair the threads and have had no problems since but I use washers under the bolt heads and check the torque often. Rear shocks mounting bolts need to be checked often too.

John

 

[bighly]

The tower tops are only 30-40$ from Moss. I figure as long as I have it torn down (complete front end rebuild) I should replace this bit. Once I get it all apart I will know whether I have to do both sides. Essentially I am undoing what some previous repair attempt resulted in.

 

[tlthorne]

Thats good to know, i dont believe they have been
availble very long(or i missed them?) cutting the old ones off and still being able to locate the new one "exactly" where the old was will be a trick, as you clean the base up it will remove
the markings, maybe a center punch marks( ... )
or in a pattern to locate the corners? Let us know how its going and any little trick you pick up along the way. it will take 5-10 as long to do the first one then the second will go fast!
Good Luck!
tt
clueless near St.Louis

 

[Scott Brunkhurst]

You might want to look at this site even though it is not much help;
www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/chassis.tif

SB

 

[bighly]

Update. I have the old top plate removed now and will have my welder drop by tonight to attach the new one. This was simpler than I originally envisioned. I have been taking pics and will post them as soon as I am done. Total cost 100$ per side. (less if you already have tools and can weld)

Note: This was a very dangerous error by the PO. When you see the pics you will understand. I recommend doing this repair correctly the first time. PO had cut a square box from the top of the plate to tack the bolts bak down from underneath. He then welded (ha!) the whole mess back on.