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Shock/Damper conversions

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Mg_Bizzle

Mg_Bizzle

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Has anybody got any fitted to their car? Which are the type to go for?

I only use my car on the road but even so i would like it to have decent handling and being 19 I don't care to much for ride comfort. The thing id most like to improve is rear end grip, it seems quite easy to get the rear end of my BGT twitchy.

On ebay theres currently a Bilstein front damper conversion and koni rear damper conversion. Theres loads of damper manufacturers out there (gaz, spax etc) but which are best?

Or maybe it would be better to buy some stiffer springs front and rear?
 
Check out one of the photos on the front end in the "Nice V6 Conversion" thread I entered in the MG forum. Nice! PJ
 
I wasnt talking about a full on coil over conversion. Also pics don't really say how good something is!

It does look nice though!
 
What's wrong with the existing lever shocks? If they aren't stiff enough for you, put some heavy duty valves in them.

By the way, you don't want to run the car too stiff on the road, especially in the rear. The live axle will hop all over the place. I'd suggest installing a larger sway bar and polyurethane bushings to start, get a feel for it, and then put on a set of sticky radial tires. You can take it farther by putting on a set of lowering springs if you desire.
 
Theres nothing really wrong, I just want more rear end grip and thought upgrade dampers would be a start. I have a 79 car so already have anti-roll bars front and rear and iv lowered the car by an inch, what would you suggest my next move be.

I was looking at getting some decent yokohama tyres, is there any perticular tyre that works well on the B?
 
A shock is a shock. The only difference would be if you need something progressive or adjustable. Most tube shock conversions will result in a choppy rear end because there is little room for them and achieving an optimal angle is difficult. There are also no tube shocks on the market that have been specifically designed and tested for an MGB.

If your tires are old or low-performance, then that would be the best place to start. Tires over there will be a bit different than what we get, but look for something fairly stiff with sticky rubber. I usually like Michelin but their latest crop of 14" tires leaves a lot to be desired. Sumitomo offers a sticky rubber on its HTR200 model, but they are a very flimsy tire so you have to run very high pressures just to keep them from flexing. My latest choice was a set of Bridgestone Turanza LS-H. Normally I don't like Bridgestone but this is a nice stiff tire with grippy rubber. See this page for other thoughts: https://www.mgnuts.com/tidbits/tires/

The next step I would take would be installing Superflex bushings everywhere. This will greatly improve handling response and reduce body sway. You can increase the sway bar sizes but don't go too crazy, especially in the rear.
 
New tires is a good way to increase 'grip'. If you can, I'd upgrade to 15" rims and run 185/65 or 195/60 tires. I have a set of Bridgestone Potenza G009 195/60 tires on 15x5.5 rims. I really like the amount of grip they have and the fact that they aren't 'noisy'. If new rims are out of the question, then 185/65 or 195/65 tires on the stock 14" rims will work too. There's just more tire options for 15" rims these days.

I suppose if you want to play around with sway bars, you could up-rate the front bar to the next size up. That'll make it more 'under-steery' compared to your current setup when driven hard...

Keep in mind, that anything you do to 'stiffen' the rear will most likely make it more 'twitchy', unless you do the same to the front.

I've lowered my '76 MGB with 550# springs up front, and 1" blocks at the rear, changed all of the bushings to polyurethane, and added a front anti-sway bar (my '76 had no bars when I got it). With my current setup, the rear gets 'light' if I lift off the throttle while taking turns at high speed. But when I get back on the gas, the rear anchors itself to the road and makes you confident that it will not switch ends with the front.

I'm currently considering early MGB rear springs with up-rated level shocks and a rear sway bar for my B. My theory for doing so is: the early springs are lower rate (softer... 93#/in versus 110#/in for RB Bs) which should allow the rear suspension to move with the bumps in the road more and thus keeping the tires in contact with the road more reducing 'twitchiness' over bumps. The uprated lever shocks are to keep the heavier RB body controlled on the softer rear springs.
 
I would get a lot more tyre options if I went 15" or went to a 195 width. But I seem to remember reading somewhere that there to big? Would I have to modify anything to go up to this size?

Also can you get 15" rostyles?
 
no on the 15" Rostyles...

195/60 tires work fine. If you're worried about them rubbing then I'd change out those rubber bushings for polyurethane. However, I believe Steve_S runs 195/60-15 rubber on his '65 MGB with stock suspension.
 
The '65 B has poly bushings but otherwise stock suspension and brakes. Wheels are 15x5.5" with Michelin Pilot 195/60R15 tires.

The '67 BGT also runs poly bushings on stock suspension, with 3/4" sway bar. Wheels are 14x5" with 195/60R14 tires. I wanted 195/65R14 but there are virtually no tires available in that size and none of them are any good.

If you want 15" rostyles, you can have the rims removed from your wheels and replaced with a 14-15" stepped rim. It funds allow, it might be better to simply buy a set of 15" minilites.

Whether or not you have clearance for 195-width tires will vary from car to car, but if you run poly bushings and everything is in good order including leaf springs then you should be fine. For minor rubbing, you can roll the fender lips in a bit.
 
I can definitely vouch for the fact that some of the shock conversions result in miserable ride and handling. I converted using the early Moss conversion. The ride wasn't just uncomfortable, it was insanely unpleasant. Also, it was so stiff that the tires would lose adhesion on bumpy corners. I understand that there are some good ones out there, but be warned.
 
Well after going to a motor show today I have lots of options for tyres. I will do some measuring up tomorrow to see if I want to go from 185 to 195.

I was also wondering if anyone had tried a wider tyre on the rear and then a thinner tyre up front, how would this effect the handling?

With regards to wheel chioces (should I go 15" or just get some nicer 14") what alloys are out there apart from minilites, wolfrace and LE's?
 
Wider rear tires were the rage for a while in the 1980's but tire technology has changed since then. With modern 185 tires I think you would introduce handling problems in tight cornering as the front tires break loose but the rears don't.

14" wheels are fine and allow a taller sidewall, which improves ride quality.

15" wheels will allow a shorter sidewall which will increase steering response and reduce tire flex. The downside will be a slightly harder ride. You will also have a better selection of tires in this size.

If you don't care about originality I would personally go with 15" wheels in a 6" width, combined with a 195/60R15 tire. This will be slightly taller overall than stock (increased rolling radius) so your speedometer may read a few percent slow unless you have it re-calibrated.

You can certainly save the money and just get some decent 14" tires. If you can find a good 195/65R14 then it would be a great compromise between ride and handling, but I was not able to find a good tire in this size here in the US.

Here is a list of wheels that will potentially fit an MGB, collected from numerous sources on the web. No guarantees that anything here will have the proper offset so check carefully before proceeding!

Acura Legend 86-91, CL, Vigor
Acura CL 2.3/3.0
Acura TL 2.5
Buick - Special '61-'63
Chevy II all 4-bolt
Chevy Corvair all 4 bolt
Chevy Nova ('61-'70)
Chevy Sprint '85-'87
Datsun/Nissan - most models to '89
Datsun roadster -early
Datsun 260Z, 280Z / ZX, turbo '70-'85
Datsun 240Z - needs chamfered nuts
Datsun 240SX (early) 89 - 94, 95 and up (4 cyl)
Dodge Colt, Plymouth Arrow RWD 79 - 92
Eagle Summit 86 - 92
Ford Falcon all 4-bolt
Ford Maverick all 4-bolt
Ford Granada all 4-bolt
Ford Capri 91 - 91
Ford Festiva
Ford Mustang all 65 - 68 all 4-bolt
Ford Mustang II
Geo Metro '88-'98
Honda Accord 90 up except V6 Accord
Honda Prelude '92-'96
Hyundai all
Infinity G20 91 - 94
Infinity M30 90 - 92
Mazda 323 86 - 89
Mazda 626 88 - 91
Mazda GLC 81 - 85
Mazda RX-7 GSL 84 - 85
Mazda RX-7 SE 86 - 88
Mitsubishi/Eagle
Mitsubishi Gallant 83 - 97
Mitsubishi Mirage 88 - 92
Mitsubishi Precis 87 - 94
Nissan/Datsun - most models to 89
Nissan 200SX 80 - 88
Nissan Altima, Stanza 93 - 98
Nissan 240Z, 260Z, 280Z /ZX, turbo 70 - 85
Nissan 510
Nissan B210
Nova ('61-'70)
Oldsmobile - F-85 61 - 63
Plymouth - Arrow 79 - 88
Plymouth - Sapporo 79 - 88
Plymouth-Mitsubishi Conquest (15")
SAAB - 900 79 to '87 come in 5.5 x 14, 5.5 x 15, or 6 x 15
SAAB - 9000 to '87 (not all?)
Sprint '85-'87
Suzuki Swift '89-'98
Toyota - most exc. MR2 and P.U. to '89
Triumph TR 1..5
Toyota Celica RWD
Toyota Corolla RWD
Toyota Supra 4 lug
Triumph TR 2-6
Volvo P1800 68 - 70
 
Well iv scrapped the idea of alloys and gone for a set of refurbished rostyles (cheap on ebay).

I think il either be going 195/60 or 185/60, I think the 185 might even be easier to get!

Also is there a way to keep tyres in good condition, my current rostyles and wheels arent to bad and I would like to keep them in storage. Would keeping them at a low PSI or anything help?

Thanks for the replies they have been very helpful.

On a side note I took my 1950cc engine for a 200 mile trip yesterday and it was returning approx 33-34mpg which is really pleasing /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
The military stores tires in the dark and cool. Seem to last some years in that storage.
 
Mg_Bizzle said:
Well iv scrapped the idea of alloys and gone for a set of refurbished rostyles (cheap on ebay).

I think il either be going 195/60 or 185/60, I think the 185 might even be easier to get!

Also is there a way to keep tyres in good condition, my current rostyles and wheels arent to bad and I would like to keep them in storage. Would keeping them at a low PSI or anything help?

Thanks for the replies they have been very helpful.

On a side note I took my 1950cc engine for a 200 mile trip yesterday and it was returning approx 33-34mpg which is really pleasing /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Click to expand...

If you'd like, drop in on the MG Experience forums MGB & MGBGT Forum and scroll down to the thread "Fresh Wheels" by Rusty Koester and see what he did with his Rostyles. They look great! Makes me want to dig out the old ones I have in a pile in the shed. https://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/list.php?1
MG Experience Forums :: The MGB & MGB GT Forum
 
You may find 185/60 a very small rolling diameter. Most people use 185/70, which is very close to stock. A 65-series might be even better.
 
Steve_S said:
You may find 185/60 a very small rolling diameter. Most people use 185/70, which is very close to stock. A 65-series might be even better.
Click to expand...

185/70/14 is what I used to have with the rostyles. I then went to 195/60/14 with the minilites. Was the original tire 165R 14? If so, how can we tell what % of the 165mm was on the sidewall so we can arrive at the correct diameter? Darrin (from Darrin's MG Service)and I were having this discussion and he thinks that even if you go with 195/60/14 you're still larger in diameter than OE.

By the way, that Rusty guy's car is very close to my color. Just a little more orange in it.
 
The original 165 tire was close to an 80 profile, which gives a 76.6" rolling circumference.

185/70R14 give a circumference of 76.0, which means your speedometer will read slightly fast.

195/60R14 has a circumference of 72.9 which is far smaller than stock, and will cause the speedometer to read 4% faster.
 
Steve_S said:
The original 165 tire was close to an 80 profile, which gives a 76.6" rolling circumference.

185/70R14 give a circumference of 76.0, which means your speedometer will read slightly fast.

195/60R14 has a circumference of 72.9 which is far smaller than stock, and will cause the speedometer to read 4% faster.
Click to expand...

185/70/14 equals 24.2” to 24.3” in diameter per Tire Rack

Ok, so:
We have 185mm on the top which is 7.28”
We have 70% sidewall which is 5.1”
We have 14” rim
Thus 5.1” x 2 = 10.2” + 14” = 24.2” diameter

On a 165/80/14
We have 165mm on the top which is 6.5”
We have 80% sidewall which is 5.2
We have 14” rim
Thus 5.2” x 2 = 10.4” + 14” = 24.4” diameter

The 195/65/14s are an even 24” (No on summer-performance-tires, only All Season)
The 205/60/14s are 23.7” to 23.8” (Yes on summer tires)
The 195/60/14s are 23.3” (Yes on summer tires)

So the 195/60/14s that I’m running are a whole inch less at 23.3”

Steve, are you sure that the OEM sidewall was 80%? Even if it was 75% it would still be 23.7” to 23.8” which is closer to the 205/60/14.
 
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