• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

General TR Shipping a Triumph

Rut

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
I need to ship a car from Columbia, SC to Tuscaloosa, AL and would like some references from people who have shipped before. It's only 418 miles, but the car is not presently running.
Thanks, Rut
 
Given the horror stories I've heard, and the extreme damage that sometimes results, I'd give serious consideration to renting the equipment and doing it yourself. 418 miles is only a day's drive (each way), with time left over for loading and unloading. Car trailers almost always include a winch (the ones from U-Haul do), but if not, a cheap "come-a-long" type hand winch will move a car. https://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-capacity-cable-puller-30131.html

If you do use a transport service, make sure they are bonded. Best to contact the bond company yourself, to be certain it is still valid.
 
Now that I think of it - the guys I used to ship my Jaguar later moved from the PNW to Florida and (so far as I know) now work the SE. They had an enclosed trailer and do a lot of motorcycle hauling but also take cars. I had the (30') trailer all to myself. Nice guys and possibly easier to work with for shipping a non-runner.

Company is Double D Transport LLC. Contact was Bruce Daniels. Cell number was 408-three40-08six4, but in case that number is no longer in use, the email was: ltltransporter-at-gmail-dot-com.
 
I have to agree with Randall. If at all possible, move it yourself. A few years ago I shipped a car from Idaho to Florida. In the end the car arrived safely but there were plenty of pitfalls in the process. Unless you pay absolute top dollar, you car will be brokered to the lowest bidder with no firm commitment to a time schedule... lots of anxiety.
 
I agree with the "do it yourself" thought. However, Not sure what type of car you want to transport, but I had extreme difficulty getting a TR3 to go onto a uhaul, TWICE. The trailer is too wide for the narrower cars to go onto. You have to make sure the car is exactly in line with the ramps. I ended up with one wheel off the ramp and it took 3 of us to lift it up and over to get it lined up. It was a few tense moments. It is not a one man process to load and unload. The last one I bought, I just called some local towing companies and they gave me a price per loaded mile. It might be a little more costly but worth not having to be involved, if you are going it alone.
 
I can tell you who not to use as Geo mentioned. Car rolled off the back of trailer on I20 doing about 80. Thats the only time I've had trouble and I've used several different haulers. I will go after one myself if it under 250 miles away. I did go to Daytona once for a 250. 750 miles one way was too long a haul for me.

marv
 
This guy is *good*.

www.motoragetransport.com

I've had three excellent experiences with him (he's based in Massachusetts but hauls cross country). The owner knows old cars, knows the ropes, is a true professional - and drives his own truck and trailer.

https://www.motoragetransport.com/

Tom
 
Well, after dealing with various shippers and a LAZY seller I decided to go pick up my TR4a. My wife and I left Tuscaloosa Saturday morning and arrived in Lexington, SC about 3 pm, picked up the Uhaul trailer and headed over to pick up the car. The seller was a great spinner of tall tales, unprepared to load the car, and didn't have a bill of sale...on top of that he whined the entire time. The car was close to as described and I'm pleased with the deal, but what a PITA! It took about 2 hours to inflate the tires and load the car and finish the bill of sale and hit the road.
We left and decided to spend the night in Augusta, GA two weeks before the Masters and the town was being prepped and spit shined for the event...a great meal and a good nights sleep had us on the road at 8 am for an uneventful trip home. I've pulled the remnants of carpet, vinyl and insulation out of the car to help it dry out for its next few months in the barn prior to restoration. I also sprayed down every nut and bolt with penetrant to get a jump on disassembly. I did remove the top assembly and found that the bolts were rusted only on the top and the threads look like new! Once the Bugeye is back from paint the TR4a will take its spot in the shop and I'm pumped!
Rut
 
Where are the pictures? :smile:

Cheers
Tush
 
I bought two 65 TR4s in McMinnville, Tn this month. I picked both of them up myself with no problems. Sheetmetal so so, both engines did crank right up. Projects for later on. Friend of mine sent a TR3 to Europe last month. New owner called and told him car was trashed by the time it got to him. Was a very nice car. Future buyers beware of shippers!

!arv
 
I'll post new pictures once the rain stops and I get it in the barn. I have to move some cars around to put this one next in line so I can remove the body from the frame when the time comes. The car looks great as far as door and other gaps are concerned and appears to have been last registered in 1978. The screws and bolts I've removed so far have not been rusted in, but that was in the top half of the car...floors will be a different story!
Rut
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    66.5 KB · Views: 129
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 132
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    68.4 KB · Views: 127
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    77.2 KB · Views: 133
Incorrect top radiator hose & missing shroud -- everything else looks fine. Should be on the road soon?

Seriously - my hat's off to anyone who takes on a project car, I look forward to seeing your progress reports.
 
I was able to take my TR4a to the farm for a little clean up prior to storage. The car looks fairly unmolested, just uncared for. The passenger floor is in good shape with surface rust and the drivers floor is pretty solid, but it has several rust holes scattered around the seat area. The boot floor is very rusty with a few holes and the bottom of the gas tank is rusted out since there's no gas cap! Looks like I'll replace the boot floor, part of the drivers floor and whatever else I find. I'll start a new thread when the time comes, but where's the best place to buy body parts? I've ordered some Bugeye sheet metal from suppliers in GB at significant savings over the usual suppliers, is that the case with Triumph parts?
Thanks, Rut
 
Back
Top