TR2/3/3A shifting tower shifting rods on an early tr3 tower

[sp53]

Will the shifting tower shifting rods on an early tr3 tower that is drilled out for the OD switches work properly for an OD or are the shifting rods different.

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, the rods are the same for either OD or non-OD. They changed for synchro 1st, though.

 

[sp53]

Randall thanks again. I have like 4 old trannys lying around and was gutting out the shifters to find or make up the best out of the bunch that would have a factory dip stick hole. I drill one out a while back, but looking at the others they are in better shape. I just need to put the switches in one of the older towers, but was concerned I was missing something; it looked too easy. Your knowledge has helped me out many times and I appreciate it. You are probably one of few that would know that and you willing to share.

When I move the switches, are there any critical measures to follow. I see the shims and just do not know how critical the fit is. I am just getting acquainted with the Over Drive. I am driving the car, but have the fenders off the car still, so I have not driven fast enough to engage the OD. I am doing the carpet and with the fenders off, so I am less likely to bang into the car crawling in and out.
steve

 

[TR3driver]

The cover castings will even interchange between 3 synchro and 4 synchro if you change the shift rods.

The book talks about the shims being important, in the section on adding OD to 2nd gear. I forget the exact procedure offhand, but its the usual measure the gap and subtract some magic number.

One of the articles on the Buckeye website talks about having to mill off the top of the cover to get the recommended setting. Might be something to watch for, if you're adding your own holes. I'm sure you could just file it down, if you don't happen to have a mill handy.

ISTR he also mentioned the hole location being fairly critical.

 

[CJD]

The only thing...I know the TR2 2/3 shift rod does not have the OD bump on it for the OD switch...so it is different. The rest should all work.

Install the switches with the cover off the box, and then you can monitor how the shift rod and switch ball are interacting.

 

[TR3driver]

The OD bump is not on the shift rod, its on the fork. All TR3-TR6 have them.

All but the last couple thousand TR2 did lack the bumps for OD in 2nd & 3rd, but the later forks will still fit and work with the early top cover (a factory supported retrofit).

 

[CJD]

As usual...You're right!

 

[sp53]

Ok---you guys-- do I have to move the forks over to the earlier shift tower along with the switches or are all the later forks the same? Is there and OD fork?

 

[sp53]

Ok after I read Randal’s post better after the shock. I can that all means all. Plus they look identical. See, I like both you guys, and yes it takes a good man to admit when he has missed something. At least that is what I tell myself when I confuse something and Randall brings it to my attention. He was wrong once I remember.

 

[TR3driver]

So all clear?

Anything you want to know, It should be perfectly clear.
You see just beneath the surface of the mud,
There's more mud here...

-- David Crosby, "Anything at all"

 

[CJD]

So, I guess the summary is:
You can use any rod from any year, so long as they are from a non-1st synchro box.
You can use any fork from a non-synch box except the TR2 1/2 fork.

Since nothing is ever marked in TR land, it’s still clear as mud!

 

[TR3driver]

You also probably wouldn't want the 3-4 fork from an earlier TR2, as it won't have the ramp for OD in 3rd.

The ramps are easy enough to see, though, should be reasonably obvious if you look for them.

(Those are the 4-synchro forks, only photo I had handy.)