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Shifting problem?

Crisis

Jedi Hopeful
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Wondering if anyone can help me with this problem. Recently TR6 has been getting difficult to shift; no clunking or grinding or anything like that, just difficult to move between the gears. Started with it being difficult to push all the way over to reverse; had to kind of slap it. Started getting worse and stiffer just moving it through the gates.
Took of the dash support panel and removed the shifter. Visual doesn't look bad. The grease was a little silvery from the spring cup rubbing on the underside of cap, but I assume thats normal? Only thing I did notice; at bottom of shifter there is a little plug that apparently has a spring under it. I know this because the manual describes using heavy grease to hold spring and plug in place while installing the shifter. Problem is, I can't even get that little plug out! It is level with surface of that little ball on end of shifter-definately couldn't fall out! Does this matter? What does that little plug do? Any ideas?
 
I don't have any ideas about what your difficulty might be.
The spring/plug you describe is supposed to be an anti-vibration device. The spring should push the plug out into contact with the shift rods, taking up any slop and holding the handle steady.

It does sound like a good cleaning and regreasing of the parts your looking at might help.
 
It is an anti rattle device. Take the shifter handle out and spray some wd40 around the plug area and clean it up. Give the handle a couple of sharp knocks on a table and the little plug should come out. The spring could be broken behind it or just worn out. When I removed my shifter handle the first time, the plunger shot out and it took me awhile to find it on the garage floor.

Cheers,
Tush
 
I've lost those things too. A 1/4" ball bearing from the hardware store makes a thoroughly adequate replacement.
 
Crisis-You have probably identified the source of difficult shifting when you noticed the silvery particles around the spring plate and cap of the shifter. It gets dry and gritty from dirt. Try removing, cleaning and lubing. You will be surprised at the difference.
Berry
 
that could be one problem, have you checked the fluid level in the gear box?
other issues
broken fork pin, which wont let the clutch disengauge fully which will cause hard shifting

maybe bleed the clutch cylinder too

if that doenst help might be worth pulling the top cover off and investigate

good luck

Hondo
 
I should have mentioned that cleaning&lubing the cap&spring plate is the easiest culprit to eliminate as to the cause of difficult shifting.
Berry
 
FYI, you are supposed to lift up on the shift knob to move it to the reverse rail. Slapping it over there without lifting slowly damages the shift lever and cup.

The little spring-loaded plunger is not likely to be the problem. As mentioned, it is just an anti-rattle device, you should be able to shift fine even with it removed entirely.

One test worth trying: Start the engine, hold the clutch down, shift into a forward gear, then into neutral for a moment (still holding the clutch pedal down) and then into reverse. If it grinds at all, you have a clutch or pilot bearing problem. (Which is fairly common on TR6.)
 
wow I never knew you were suppose to lift the shift lever up to engauge reverse, makes sense after seeing the shift rails and the reverse one is about 1/8 inch higher, learn something new every day

thanks
Hondo
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies. It appears that titanic hit the nail on the head in my case. I cleaned and lubed the spring cup, cap and gate area-reinstalled and adjusted. Shift lever now moves easily and smoothly with nice sounding clicks. I did not know you should lift the shifter when moving into reverse. Thanks for that tip as well.
Reid
 
Reid-I glad to hear that cleaning&lubing solved the problem before you disassembled the trans. I have seen spring caps completely worn through from grit and lack of lube.
About the proper way way to select reverse. My old TR3 owners manual mentions "lift and move to the right", whereas the TR6 manual says "Move the lever sharply to the extreme right and rearward". It would be interesting to compare the shift rods of the 2 transmission to see if there is a difference. My 71 TR6 doesn't require lifting.
Berry
 
We just had a similar discussion over on the 6-Pack about finding Reverse. I am one of those who have to lift before the move to the right. That's on my 73. The 74 I did not.
 
68, 250 also lift for reverse
 
68, 250 also lift for reverse
 
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