• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

shift lever removal

Share this page

tahoe healey

tahoe healey

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I pulled the BJ8 gear box yesterday to take to be rebuilt. I got the clip and spring out but the lower part of the lever doesn't seem to want to come out of its housing. Does it just need more force. The ball joint also looked very dry, does it get lubricated? That thing is very heavy for one (old) person to move about. There is also a little lever on the side which does nothing. Should it be screwed down since there is a hole for a screw? Although the clutch is fine, I'm thinking to replace it so I don't have to do this all again in 20,000 miles. Who makes the best and who sells the best (or near beat since it is subjective)?
Thanks
Rich
 
SHift lever's ball should be lubricated; should also allow removal by pulling straight up once the clip & spring are out of the way. The little lever sounds like the overdrive test feature (when electrically actuated, the hole in the lever should line up with the hole in the casing.
 
Nope! TH, there are two screws one on each side of the ball or drift pins which must be removed to free the gear lever ball. Don't worry about the little lever it's part of the OVD and OK.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
there should be a screw at 3oclock and another at 9 oclock which protrude into grooves cut in the ball at the base of thec shift lever back thes 2 screws out and the lever will lift out of the turret
 
[ QUOTE ]
Nope! TH, there are two screws one on each side of the ball or drift pins which must be removed to free the gear lever ball. Don't worry about the little lever it's part of the OVD and OK.--Fwiw---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
Wow, been a long time since I put the MGC trans into the Healey. Yep, setscrews; I can picture them now...
 
--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

------ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Yep Randi, but you get one of them with the roll pins and it will make you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif as the /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif.---Keoke
 
When I bought my BJ8 one of those pins was gone, and the threads in the tranny stripped. The lower ball was out of the socket, and the trans stuck in 3rd gear. The po was told by the local, supposedly competent, mechanic that the trans was junk. Not only did I get a good deal on the car, but learned just how much torque these things pack. Anyway, one helicoil, one new nylon piece, and a homemade pin put everything in order. That is until I had the trans torn down as a part of the complete overhaul, and found that the mainshaft had galling on the front bearing surface. Oh well.
 
I remember that bit about the main shaft Cutlass. Have you seen the NOS one offered on E-bay ?. Further, if the capability exists in your area the shaft can be Magnetron sputtered and then turned back to standard size,---Keoke
 
I did see it, Keoke. But it did not appear to be appropriate for my 66 BJ8. Anyway, I bit the big bullet and bought a new one. Calling around, I did find used mainshafts, but the reports indicated that many of them had that galling. So, hoping that the metalurgy has progressed over the last 40 years, I'm going to tell myself that the extra money was in the nature of insurance. In any event, I picked up the trans last weekend, all ready to paint and install. I'll probably get to that phase in just a few weeks.
 
Bugger HUH TH, Try to get a screwdriver blade between the recess in the ball and the end of the -*{["Roll Pin"]*- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif} and try to prise it out. Failing this, start with a drill just larger than the hole in roll pin and keep increasing the bit size until you drill Them out. Put a note in with the tranny and Have Bruce; drill, Tap and install the later type bolts during the rebuild. He may cheat and just switch the tranny top.-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
I'll give that a try. Is that how they came? Moss calls them rollpins. Are some screws?
The other part of my first post was regarding the clutch. Moss uses Quintin Hazel. Who sell which good stuff?
 
The Mechanical Service Parts List calls for two rollpins, with a change point of "(G) 101-118." It also calls for two "locating pins" for "(G) 1442 on." Apparently, at the change, the gearbox cover assembly, into which the shift lever fits, was changed, with the later ones using the locating pins, which are actually 1/4-28 bolts, 3/4 inch long, with the outer 3/8 inch turned down to eliminate the threads. The later pins are listed by Moss as n/a. Pretty easy to make, however, and someone probably does make them. I made a replacement from a grade 5 bolt.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'll give that a try. Is that how they came? Moss calls them rollpins. Are some screws?
The other part of my first post was regarding the clutch. Moss uses Quintin Hazel. Who sell which good stuff?

[/ QUOTE ]

Jest put the note in with the tranny when you send it and quit worrying Uself to deaf.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

IMOP If the clutch does not say Borg & Beck U ain't got no clutch.-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks all, I got it out as Keoke discribed.

[/ QUOTE ]

--------You mean that it actually worked!!?---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Yep, I didn't even need no stinking drill! You da man!

So, are all clutches created equal?

[/ QUOTE ]

----------------------IMOP------------NO!- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif---Gotta say Borg & Beck for me- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Back
Top