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Shift Bushing

Burkee

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I searched on the forum but couldn’t find an answer. Can the nylon shift bushing be replaced without having to remove the transmission tunnel?
 

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Possibly a somewhat sloppier shifter feel. But, I'm guessing you have other issue(s) you hope a simple bushing R&R will fix?
 
Don’t use the nylon one they don’t last . Pay a bit more and get the brass one with the spring clip .
 
I recently replaced the shift bushing on my side-shift transmission because the lever was so loose it wouldn't stay in OD unless I held the lever with my hand. I tried replacing the brass bushing, but it fell into the transmission and I had to remove the side cover to replace it. The center-shift box may make it easier.
 
Would a brass bushing fit? All comments seem to say nylon bushing for a BJ8.
Yes it fits . Stick it to the end ball of the gear lever with grease and carefully lower it into place .
 

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I sourced a brass bushing years ago for the BJ 7 expecting it would be an easy installation. I tried removing the gear lever which appears to be held in place with a roll pin and not the bolt-in style. Roll pin does not budge. Am I missing something here? Thanks
 
I sourced a brass bushing years ago for the BJ 7 expecting it would be an easy installation. I tried removing the gear lever which appears to be held in place with a roll pin and not the bolt-in style. Roll pin does not budge. Am I missing something here? Thanks
Factory gearbox? I think all the 6 cylinder boxes used two bolts with turned down ends to hold the lever in place. You might want to remove the gearbox cover to get a better view (if you can get it past the lever). Roll pins are hollow, but probably too hard to use a tap to thread the inside diameter to use to extract.

Interesting.
 
Yes. Original to the car center shift with OD. Excerpt from Moss diagram showing "Gear Lever Locating pin" for BJ8s but roll pin for BJ7s and earlier cars with center shift. Do the roll pins - which are located on both side of the tower- secure the gear lever? Removed circlip and washer and tried pulling straight up on the gear lever, but no joy. Perhaps there's a sweet spot where the pins line up with slot in the gear lever. Thanks
Roll pin or bolt.jpg
 
I've had some luck getting broken bolts and studs out using left-handed bits--use drill in 'reverse' direction--though, unless the holes are threaded direction may not matter (and it's a long shot anyway). You'd think when using a stud they would use one a quarter inch or so longer than necessary, so you'd at least have something to greb.
 
According to Leo Ruof who rebuilds gearboxes and overdrives, you have to drive the roll pins into the shifter ball to remove the lever.
 
The procedure found on YouTube makes sense and should work for my BJ7 Early Car Center Shift Drive the pins out slightly to remove the gear lever and reverse on installation. Going to give it a try later this week. Thanks all.
 
Replaced my bushing with a nylon one. I know the brass one would have been better. The shifting is much improved, not as sloppy and goes into gear a lot better. The problem I have that I thought might have been remedied is the overdrive. It goes into overdrive, slight delay, but does not go out. I tried pushing in the clutch and pressing the gas pedal when I switched the overdrive off. I came to a stop and moved the shifter to the right and the solenoid still clicks. Press the gas pedal again while stopped move shifter to the right and no click. Also getting a slip when overdrive is not off, but switched off. Fresh 40 weight oil put in.
 
Sounds like the throttle switch needs setting correctly . The throttle switch needs to be set so the OD drops out if you kiss the throttle above about 1/3rd of travel . If the OD switch is turned off the only thing left in the circuit to hold the OD on is the throttle switch .
20/50 is the oil recommended in the manual for the gearbox/OD .
 
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