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She's a runnin'!!

burgundyben

Jedi Hopeful
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Lifted back in yesterday, lots of fitting up and have had her running! Oil pressure seems to be about 40 at idle and 60 and 3k rpm! Thats better.

This has highlighted that there is a lot of oil coming out along the rocker shaft, I guess a result of the now much higher pressure.

Just need to fit the cold air box now which is a complete PITA to bolt on!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Lifted back in yesterday, lots of fitting up and have had her running! Oil pressure seems to be about 40 at idle and 60 and 3k rpm! Thats better.

This has highlighted that there is a lot of oil coming out along the rocker shaft, I guess a result of the now much higher pressure.

Just need to fit the cold air box now which is a complete PITA to bolt on!

[/ QUOTE ]
At least you won't have to remove the enging when you decide to rebuild the rockershaft...

Rockershaft and rockerarm bushing wear has ALWAYS been a weak point on the Healeys. For high rpm use, (relatively speaking, considering today's engines) I use a slight restriction in the rockerarm oil feed to keep from flooding the rockerbox (and starving the bottom end).
 
You have rocker arm & or shaft wear. At hot idle, there should be around one drip per second from each rocker arm. Worn rockers will allow enough oil flow to flood the valve guides & be sucked into the combustion chambers. Since I assume that you are not running a lot of high rpm, restrictors would just be a band aid.
D

Edit:
If you screw short studs into the cold air box & use loctite, it's much easier to get all four studs through the carb flange holes, than to get each capscrew aligned & thread started, one at a time. Nuts can be put on the carb end of the studs, more easily.
D
 
[ QUOTE ]
"I use a slight restriction in the rockerarm oil feed"

I heard mention of doing this, how did you do it?

[/ QUOTE ]
I weld closed the fitting that's screwed into the head and then redrill it to a smaller size. It's been years since I've done one, so I'd have to take mine out to say what the orifice size is now (seems like I was cutting the area in half, but don't quote me). I have actually seen cars come through the shop (when I worked at Austin-Healey West) that someone had partially collapsed the feed tube with Vise-Grips; what a moron!
 
I'd heard of the method that Randy describes as moronic (ie squashing the tube) and did not much fancy it.

I'll need to have a more carefull look when properly hot ans see how much is flowing, I recently replced the pedastel with the oil hole as the banjo bolt thread was stripped and the whole rocker gear seemed to have negligable wear, maybe its actually ok, there was lots of oil in there as I had just poured a gallon in!

I'll get her settled down and run a bit then have another look.

thanks

BB
 
[ QUOTE ]
there is a lot of oil coming out along the rocker shaft

[/ QUOTE ]

I recommend Rocker Arm Specialists. Geysers are NOT normal. I am in agreement with Dave, do the rebuild.
You will flood the head as well as be more prone to rocker cover leaks.

Making good progress !! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
"I use a slight restriction in the rockerarm oil feed"

I heard mention of doing this, how did you do it?

[/ QUOTE ]
I weld closed the fitting that's screwed into the head and then redrill it to a smaller size. It's been years since I've done one, so I'd have to take mine out to say what the orifice size is now (seems like I was cutting the area in half, but don't quote me). I have actually seen cars come through the shop (when I worked at Austin-Healey West) that someone had partially collapsed the feed tube with Vise-Grips; what a moron!

[/ QUOTE ]

Well Yeah, but the end results seem bout the same.-Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I had a look today, I guess at idle its about one drip per second so I guess its ok, it was a great deal less when the pressure was struggling to met 20...

seems to have settled with 45 at idle.
 
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